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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Incredible!!
Finally did this route on the last day of our trip after nearly 20 years of dreaming!! 9 hours car to car, which included nearly 4 hours in the black chimneys. As they say, once you reach the top of the black tower, "its over baby!!" For the decent, as others have mentioned, stay on the ridgeline way longer than you think. The Cairns are not as abundant for the first part of the ridge and some of the ones we found were wrong, leading many to descend too early. As you reach the summit ridge and look along it, you will see 3 small summits strung out over nearly a mile distance. Do not descend until you have traversed all the way to the third summit (with the huge cairn on top). At this point you should see numerous smaller cairns indicating the decent trail down to the top of Frogland.
Added: 2009-04-03
