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lithophiliac's Logbook (104 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: The Cave

Relics Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Quality!

Another excellent sport route! The first several clips involve moderate climbing, but this quickly changes as the route steepens . None in our party climbed the crux the same way.

Added: 2013-10-07

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: The Cave

Aboriginal Design Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best sport routes in the Tieton!

A totally fun sport route on amazing rock! Great moves, great bolting and memorable cruxes! A new favorite for sure!

Added: 2013-10-07

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: North Cascades: Washington Pass: Liberty Bell

Liberty Crack (IV 5.11c) popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b A2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-07-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing route, but we should have waited for the shade.

Pre fixed the first two pitches on Saturday evening, then sent the route in 10.5 hours car to car the next day. Should have skipped the pre fixing! The early start meant we were in the sun and 90 degree heat all day. Aided pitches 1-3 and the rotten block section. Everything else went free at around .10b max. The upper 5.9 crack was burly yet awesome, one of my more memorable leads in a good while!! Got totally fried, but it was totally worth it!

Added: 2013-07-22

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Wildcat Wall

Lordy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun and clean!

A well bolted sport climb up a nice, right facing dihedral. This climb is located on the right third of the wall about 40 feet right of Keelhauled. Ends at chains on top of a series of broken pillars half way up the wall.

Added: 2013-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Wildcat Wall

Wildcat Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Washington's answer to Trout Creek, OR.

A classic andesite thin crack! Varied climbing to start, then killer locks all the way to the belay. I used a ton of small aliens on this one and second the recommendation for the #4 cam down low. Do it!

Added: 2013-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tumwater Canyon: Castle Rock

Mr. Clean Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 1989-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars My preferred start to Catapult.

Did this first in '89 and probably 20 times since then. Still a tricky lead after all this time!! The key is placing gear in the less positive locks and using the good ones to climb. Of course, I never seem to get this right:(! During one of my early and impressionable ascents, I had Jim Yoder solo up and past me complaining that "he almost greased off down there!" Freaked me out at the time, but I think he was just hamming it up!

Added: 2013-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Kloochman Rock

Appetite For Destruction Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Adventurous climbing!!

Climbed this with Phil on Saturday and found some real head's up climbing! We broke off or trundled over 1,000 lbs of rock during our ascent. I had holds disintegrate in my hands over a dozen times on lead and it became a real challenge to avoid hitting my belayer at times! This is in addition to the tons of dirt and lichen that permeated the route. If this got more traffic, it could turn into a pretty good climb, but for now, I'm just glad its over! The first .10d pitch was very sustained, while the second had a hard start that could easily be called .11. Exit straight left just below the last bolt to finish the route. Be sure to bring enough webbing to back up all 5 stations as we found heavily faded and chewed through slings at all belays.

Added: 2013-06-23

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tumwater Canyon: Castle Rock

M. F. Direct Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Eat your wheaties before trying this one!!

Finally went for the onsite on this after walking by it for years. Should have kept walking!! Felt a lot closer to .11c and I gave my belayer and gear a good workout. Totally rad finish!!

Added: 2013-06-16

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tumwater Canyon: Castle Rock

The Bone Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lithophiliac on 2013-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Another trip up an old classic.

A great detour to take after doing the best parts of Catapult. The classic view from Stoners Ledge is worth the trip in itself. No fixed belays.

Added: 2013-06-16

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Okanagan: SKAHA: The Fortress

primal dream Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spicy, awesome climbing!

Definitely scarier when you don't bring some finger sized gear! A super route and one of my more memorable ascents at Skaha.

Added: 2012-09-02

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