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lithophiliac's Logbook (123 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Goose Egg Mountain

The Commandho Pillar Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2015-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A fun adventure and better than expected! new

We started this route from the ground via heavy bushwhacking in the lower gully to reach the base of the .11b pitch. We felt this pitch was best avoided as it was way harder than anything else on the route and also had some key flakes that were loose and ready to break off. Instead, take the third class ramps in from the left and start on P2 (5.8), or go up to the small tree at the base of P3 (5.10a - best option). Additional heads up! Traversing into the start of the second (5.8) pitch will leave you with no belay and a very difficult to reach 1st bolt! A leader fall here could be real trouble. After clipping the first bolt, it is best to move right, then back left (not obvious). Most available topo's suggest going left from the first bolt into a totally overgrown left facing corner. Not recommended!! The rock quality improves greatly after pitch two and all the other pitches were of good quality and easily protected. We had no trouble rappelling the route with a single 70m rope. Pitch three was a real gem and worth fighting your partner for the lead:).

Added: 2015-07-27

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Mount Wilson: Northeast Face

Inti Wantana Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2015-03-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A wonderful route!

Out of the many multi pitch routes I have done in Red Rocks, this was among the best. Just enough spice to keep the riff raff off, yet fairly mellow climbing overall. The approach was a real bitch, but we made it first try in about 1 hour and 45 min. The comments about keeping going if you are unsure which gully to take were helpful. Look for cairns. Also, you can DEFINITELY avoid the white rot gully decent on the way out! Just descend the main gully until you are forced to do a cool free hanging double rope rappel. At the bottom of this rap, trend climbers right and pick up the decent trail again near the red cliff band of the approach. This route is ten times better than Crimson Chrysalis with none of the crowds!

Added: 2015-04-17

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: Cocaine Gully

Bloodshot Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2015-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of my proudest onsights!

One of the best 5.11's I have ever done! Great rock, varied cruxes and with the hardest one right at the end. Its also super long with great views. What's not to love?

Added: 2015-03-09

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Okanagan: SKAHA: The Doctors Wall

Unethical Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Be ready for the end!

This was the best route I did on my recent trip to Skaha. Incredibly fun and sustained and with a heartbreaker, thin crimper finish. I didn't bring extra gear, but it really wasn't bad without it.

Added: 2014-10-23

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Okanagan: SKAHA: Red Tail Upper

Treasure in the lichen Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Well worth the approach!

This was another classic Skaha face climb. Starts with some reachy moves on big holds, but quickly turns to a nice technical face. Long and well protected!

Added: 2014-10-23

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Okanagan: SKAHA: Screeching Wall

Arch Evader Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Another great Skaha .11!

This route has many quality moves although I would have loved to have a small cam to place in a few spots!

Added: 2014-10-23

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 08. West Side Crags: Mesa Verde Wall

Bad Moon Rising *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-09-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A much nicer route than it used to be!

Finally got the red point on this one many years after blowing the last moves and taking a huge fall at the roof. Seemed pretty casual this time, comparatively:). A really nice route which starts and ends hard!

Added: 2014-09-30

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Wildcat Wall

Colonade Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Another Wildcat classic!

Another chance to test your thin crack pain tolerance as well! Great locks for the most part with bomber gear throughout. Ends on a nice series of face holds with several bolts.

Added: 2014-09-26

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Wildcat Wall

Keelhauled Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sustained technical climbing capped by a frustrating and thin finishing crux.

This route is awesome up to about 10 feet below the chains. From there, it gets tricky, thin and greasy, just when you need it least.

Added: 2014-09-26

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Tieton: Wildcat Wall

Rhythm and Sorrow Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2014-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best 11's in Washington!!

A beautiful climb that should not be missed! Clean rock, great gear and awesome moves make this one of my favorite trad lines in Washington. The finishing moves are incredible and should certainly hold your attention

Added: 2014-09-26

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