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Description:
crimpy
Submitted by: tigerbythetail on 2006-01-21
Views: 881
Route ID: 22838
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
it's just me and the rock at sunset...
The problem with relying on one's memory as a guide to routes is the fact that mine is about as solid as swiss cheese. For some reason I thought the Showdown was a pretty easy 10+... and that turned out to be WRONG. Had I know the grade, I would have never attempted... this is the making of an ugly climb (even on top rope).
The climb starts in the 5.10 range with slabby face climb... the first difficult section is getting over the bulge of a flaky block about a quarter of the way up. Look for thin mini flakes for crimping but for those of you ladies out there, you can actually get the tips of your fingers in between the flakes and the wall, giving you additional security as you power up the route.
The crux is near the top when the wall thin out to bulbous rock knobs, which does make the climb difficult, but not impossible. You can palm and squeeze around the knobs for small upward moves. You have to trust your feet.
Overall good climb, and DEFINITELY NOT A REAL 5.12a (more like a 11b).
The climb starts in the 5.10 range with slabby face climb... the first difficult section is getting over the bulge of a flaky block about a quarter of the way up. Look for thin mini flakes for crimping but for those of you ladies out there, you can actually get the tips of your fingers in between the flakes and the wall, giving you additional security as you power up the route.
The crux is near the top when the wall thin out to bulbous rock knobs, which does make the climb difficult, but not impossible. You can palm and squeeze around the knobs for small upward moves. You have to trust your feet.
Overall good climb, and DEFINITELY NOT A REAL 5.12a (more like a 11b).
Added: 2009-05-31
