For Real Crack - 5.7

i don't understand why people don't like this climb, its clean enough where you need it, and where it isn't, you can just easily rub the moss away to place a cam in just a few seconds. I think people are getting lazy with all these pre-cleaned routes.

DO NOT start in crud gully like it is advertised, that is where it is dirty, wet, not fun, etc... We started to the far left (NOT in crud gully) on the face right next to the Jail Break variation of Surrealistic to the first flaring crack (clean 5.8 face climbing 15' left of crud gully). Once you are level with the small bush, traverse 5' to your right, and begin the fun :]

you can stay inside the chimney/offwidth the whole time and avoid grabbing the abundant face holds to add some spice to the climb. i personally recommend this, likewise, you could also just face climb outside of the chimney and reach in to place pro, but then you're not getting the full uniqueness of the route.

There's good pro in the wide section and you don't NEED anything bigger than two #4's, but it was nice having a #5, and would have been easy with a #6, just depends how much you want to climb above your piece on the second pitch were it narrows.

at the end of the chimney you emerge onto a face ladened with hundreds of sporadic cracks and flakes, just be careful where you pull and you'll be fine. When the cracks become useless is when you traverse a few feet left and climb up the 5.7 arete.
Can be done in two pitches.