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Carbs and Caffeine - 5.11a popular
Average Rating : 4.55 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 370
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Description:
Start: On the arête to the right of Airy Aria. Pitch 1: Climb the arête and crack to the Airy Aria belay ledge (5.8+) (rap bolts & chains). Pitch 2: Climb the corner to the overhang. Work straight up to a creative no-hands stance below the next overhang. Traverse left about 8 ft. and climb the overhangs past two bolts. Diagonal up right to the huge roof (optional hanging belay). Traverse left about 10 ft. and work up to a scrunched position below the next roof. Traverse right to the nose (harder if taller) and up to the top (5.11a). As of 7/9/2015, the old manky bolt has been replaced with a new one.
Submitted by: interniq on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2015-10-13
Views: 3013
Route ID: 40234
Ascent Note:
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Ascent Note
I don’t know what possessed us to skip the 5.10 grade and jump in on a 5.11a. Perhaps it was because this route looked so easy last week, as we watched another party on it while we were on Airy Aria. After I got through the first overhang to where I could see much of the crux moves, I just wondered what I was thinking this morning. I rested there for what seemed like an hour, trying to plan out the next sequence of moves. Finally, I said "what the hell" and tried it. I traversed over and up, clipped the first bolt, and was pumped out. I had to hang. After another attempt, I figured out the proper sequence and was able to pull through. I got up to the big roof, and set up the hanging belay. By the time John got up there our feet were burning, and we were so spent that we decided to bail. So we traversed right and finished on Airy Aria. Now that I know what to expect, I think I can send this route on my next attempt.
Witnessed by: John B.
Added: 2003-09-07
Added: 2003-09-07
