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Oscar and Charley Link-Up - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.10/5 Average Rating : 4.10 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 139
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Rock
G
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.29/5
  Rock Quality 4.21/5
  Scenery 3.57/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This is a link-up of 3 climbs; Oscar's Variation, Strictly From Nowhere and Travels With Charley. Dick William's grey book describes it as such: Lots of fun with great moves on each pitch. Can combine the first two pitches. Start at the large left-facing corner just to the right of Gaston. Pitch 1: 5.7 G (Oscar's). Climb corner to bulge, work up past it(crux) and up to top of corner, step right and move up to small ledge and make a belay above pine tree rap-station. (50 ft.). Pitch 2: 5.7 PG (Strictley's). Climb up a bit right to ledge on Strickly's, then work up steep rock into left-facing corner and horizontal overhang(crux), move around right and up to bolt anchors and pine tree. (50 ft.) Pitch 3: 5.7 PG (Charley's). Move directly up face from boltanchors to good horizontal holds, traverse left about 12-15 feet and up to join Travels With Charley at old pin. Climb past small, short right-facing corner(crux 1) and then up face to a short left-facing corner with overhangs above. Move around right and climb the bulging face(crux 2) up to the right side of the long overhang. Climb the overhang up to GTLedge and belay tree/rap-station. (80ft.) FA (Oscar's Variation) 1950's - Oscar Dorfman

Submitted by: ontherocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1579
Route ID: 66940

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: gblauer on 2009-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A great little corner climb

The right face of the corner was wet, but, it mattered not. The holds still worked and the feet were still sticky. The crux is at the bulge, just a short pull and you are done. I think this would be a good climb for a budding 7 leader.

Added: 2009-10-10