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Up to #3 Camalot, can be done with less. Best to go light - set of nuts and small to medium cams - s
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Description:
Nice route, great for multipitch beginners. Kind of like going for a hike on the side of a rock. You always have a nice view while belaying. First 5 belays are at giant eyebolts, with the last bolt at the top right of the 'C'. For the standard 6th pitch, go up and slightly left above the belay to a very easy steep section and continue up excellently featured rock almost 200 feet to a great belay (look carefully for a large hole to thread and a rock horn to sling). For the 7th pitch, traverse right to a large chockstone that allows you to step over the 'gash' and continue up the runout crux to the summit. A direct sixth pitch, that is right after you leave the last eyebolt, and cross the 'gash', you can keep climbing until you get to the top of the gash if you have a 60 m rope. It is really tight to make it to this belay, but its a great place to belay because of the crack, ledge and big boulder which accompany it. Be sure to allow plenty of time if you are belaying all of the 7 pitches.
Submitted by: mountainmonkey on 2002-09-04
Views: 3799
Route ID: 5956
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.2 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great climb.
Fun. A group from Boulder was doing time trials while I was on it. They were in running shoes and lightweight harnesses.
The first pitch has 2 bolts; the intermediate bolt that can be seen from the East Bench. Pitches 2-5 each have 1 bolt at the belay stance. It could be easy to go past a bolt but climb slow and keep looking around and you should see every one.
We went left of the channel for the 6th pitch which has no bolt. Pitch 7 is hard to place gear on but pretty easy.
It was possible to place a lot of gear along the way. I took only 7 nuts, quickdraws and some shoulder length slings. I never placed over three pieces of protection (nuts, threaded slots, slung horns), though that ended up feeling only like practice setting gear. The climb can be very runout, though if you look, you can definitely find plenty of gear placements. I would recommend also bringing 3 Camalots (#1-3) if you were climbing with gear.
The first pitch has 2 bolts; the intermediate bolt that can be seen from the East Bench. Pitches 2-5 each have 1 bolt at the belay stance. It could be easy to go past a bolt but climb slow and keep looking around and you should see every one.
We went left of the channel for the 6th pitch which has no bolt. Pitch 7 is hard to place gear on but pretty easy.
It was possible to place a lot of gear along the way. I took only 7 nuts, quickdraws and some shoulder length slings. I never placed over three pieces of protection (nuts, threaded slots, slung horns), though that ended up feeling only like practice setting gear. The climb can be very runout, though if you look, you can definitely find plenty of gear placements. I would recommend also bringing 3 Camalots (#1-3) if you were climbing with gear.
Added: 2009-10-11
