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Description:
This is an outstanding route, a real classic. The climb is located just left of Jim Dandy. Climb a long pitch up the slab roughly following a crack system, full rope length. There is a bolt belay station at the top of the pitch. You will see the Peek-A-Boo move across from your stance. Clip the bolt and pull across the gap, follow the traverse to the next crack system and follow it up until you can get back on the face at the end of the roof. You can go up, rap off, or traverse to lunch ledge from here. The gear is excellent on this climb.Descent Options:
Requires 2 ropes if rappelling down from 2nd pitch to first pitch belay on Jim Dandy! Free-hanging rappel. Don't send someone who's never rappelled especially without a backup..
Submitted by: benfieldj on 2002-06-24
Last Modified: 2011-05-23
Views: 4342
Route ID: 19700
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
P1 only
Pretty long first pitch!
Slab freaks me out a little and there were sections that were a little thin on gear - I had 2 or 3 15' runouts. The route takes nuts well and small-mid cams (think I used 1 #2 C4 and all else smaller). The bolt about 1/3 of the way up is really a nice find when you reach it. I wouldn't call it PG-13 but maybe PG...
I stepped over and clipped the bolt and all but did the move (got hands on the holds and one foot over) but my second wasn't feeling it. I don't blame her as the step over the chasm could well be pretty heady and the holds aren't super-jugs, just good enough to get the job done at the grade. (I'm sure it didn't help that while belaying me she overhead some guy say:
"That's Peek-A-Boo the're on. Only route I've ever taken a lead fall, right at the big move." Regardless, the first pitch alone is pretty fun.
Also, the rap down from those bolts with a single 70m rope takes you to the right side gully and you've got to scramble back down a bit (not TOO bad). Better to do with two ropes or just finish it!
Slab freaks me out a little and there were sections that were a little thin on gear - I had 2 or 3 15' runouts. The route takes nuts well and small-mid cams (think I used 1 #2 C4 and all else smaller). The bolt about 1/3 of the way up is really a nice find when you reach it. I wouldn't call it PG-13 but maybe PG...
I stepped over and clipped the bolt and all but did the move (got hands on the holds and one foot over) but my second wasn't feeling it. I don't blame her as the step over the chasm could well be pretty heady and the holds aren't super-jugs, just good enough to get the job done at the grade. (I'm sure it didn't help that while belaying me she overhead some guy say:
"That's Peek-A-Boo the're on. Only route I've ever taken a lead fall, right at the big move." Regardless, the first pitch alone is pretty fun.
Also, the rap down from those bolts with a single 70m rope takes you to the right side gully and you've got to scramble back down a bit (not TOO bad). Better to do with two ropes or just finish it!
Added: 2009-11-08
