Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
George and Joanne Urioste
Rock (Trad)
Aid
PG13
9
13+ quickdraws, lightweight aiders or long slings, set of nuts, set of cams .6" - 2"
1000
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
This actually a (5.10 A0) 9 pitch climb with lots of bolts, but this is no sport climb. P1 - (.8) dihedral and crack to a belay ledge with bolts, 200' P2 - (.10) move right past two bolts, (use long slings on these to avoid rope drag), follow a seam left past 8 more bolts to a belay stance atop a block, 150' P3 - (.10) straight up white face past many bolts, (lost count), to a bolted anchor, 90' P4 - (.9) follow nine bolts to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay, 110' P5 - (.10) move right to ledge and then up past several bolts to a bolted belay, 60' P6 - (.8 A0) follow a thin crack to a bulge then aid out the bulge, 8 bolts, to another bolted belay, 60' P7 (.10) follow a corner/groove to the next anchors, 100' P8 (.9) go up and left in a corner in a corner past 4 old bolts, (rest of the route has new bolts), to a ledge, belay here (130') or run it out up an easy corner to the top (50' more). You can hike off the top or rap the route from the top of P7. If you are wanting to rap and loose track where you are at on the climb, do not climb past the old bolts, there are no bolt anchors above at this time. If I do this route again, I'll rap it.Descent Options:
Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off if you top out.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-03-14
Views: 2397
Route ID: 31463
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Eagle Dance
We combined the first two pitches, 5-6 and 7-8 for a total of 6 vs 9 to the final rap station. I led that first 5.10c and combined the aid pitch with that 5.10b pitch. Thought both were full value leads. We enjoyed that last pitch and did not fear that first bolt nor thought the pitch was hard to protect. I thought the existing bolts were well placed actually. Just take some double length slings for the aid and you will be set. The transition to free climbing to reach the anchor is awkward. The climbing after that is a bit pumpy as well if you are combining these pitches as I did. The best approach for this wall folks is to hike up the Painted Bowl walk off and then scramble up easy rock to the shoulder below Rainbow Buttress. Much quicker and direct than any other option. If you really think this approach is bad, don't visit the Canadian Rockies for rock routes.
Added: 2010-01-10
