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Rock
We used standard rack to 3" but saw some spots for a #4.
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Description:
Hourglass Diversion climbs the first two pitches of The Nightcrawler. Pitches 3-5 are Hourglass Diversion. Start down and right of the distinctive Hourglass feature on Brownstone Wall on white rock. P-1 Climb up the low angle, broken up cracks on white rock. Protection scant on the initial moves, but climbing easy. Veer slightly left to catch a steeper crack. Follow the crack for a ways, then traverse about 8 feet left, to bolted anchor. (below the obvious varnished wide crack and chimney)165ft. 5.6 P-2 Climb and wiggle up the stellar chimney (you will find intermittent protection opportunities in the deep corner of the chimney). Climb up to a right facing corner to bolted anchor. 140ft. 5.9 P-3 Traverse right on a low angle ramp to the base of a thin, steep crack. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft. 5.4 P-4 Climb up the thin crack. Protects well. Watch out for hollow flakes. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft. 5.9 P-5 Climb the continuing crack system that eases up to 4th class terrain. Nearing the top, you will come across a choice of easy slab climbing with no pro for a small section on your right, or a tight, secure squeeze up a narrow chimney directly above you. There's also a fun section of steep, but easy climbing on varnished, pocketed rock on this pitch. No fixed anchor. 180ft or so. 5.8 From top of the route, hike and 3rd class up a bit, then head left to eventually end up at the Gunsight Notch descent.
Submitted by: snakehuntergirl on 2006-05-19
Views: 1018
Route ID: 76787
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Hourglass Diversion
Not overly impressed. We used it to fill a day with Nightcrawler. Worth doing for that purpose. Rap back down the top two pitches of Nightcrawler and then do the ramp which is kind of neat. Then a slightly chossy corner, looks solid, but a little flaky higher up. The last pitch was pretty uneventful and dirty. Once your reach the top, move a few meters to your left to find a double bolted rap that will take you to the top of Nightcrawler with 60m doubles. With Joe Allan.
Added: 2010-03-24
