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Northern Pillar (5.2) - 5.3

Average Rating = 3.41/5 Average Rating : 3.41 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 216
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Rock
G
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.38/5
  Rock Quality 3.62/5
  Scenery 3.88/5
  Fun Factor 3.65/5

Description:

Up the gulley on the left side of the Guide's Wall (P1); directly up the rock from Fingerlocks, going up a right-facing arete and angling left to small tree and large detached block (P2); up dihedral to rap anchor (P3).

Submitted by: admin on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 2347
Route ID: 43950

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: a_dumb_fake_name on 2010-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First 'gunks lead

Not sure this climb is the best beginner lead spot in the world...at the start, placed "protection" in an incredibly fractured, hollow-sounding face (but what do I know, I'm just a beginner). Noticed the 'gunks seems to be a good spot for tri-cams. For one placement, I would've used a tri-cam except there wasn't one on my [loaner] rack. I attempted to make do with a nut, and then endured a lecture afterwards re: my lousy placement. Clearly I'm no McGuyver. Had to hang out for a while halfway up P1 for a party of climbers to rappel over top of me. Protecting the traverse before the first belay was worthwhile practice. It was so late in the afternoon I called it quits at that stage and rapp'ed off of the station above Fingerlocks.

Added: 2010-07-06