a_dumb_fake_name's Logbook (42 ascents)

Not sure this climb is the best beginner lead spot in the world...at the start, placed "protection" in an incredibly fractured, hollow-sounding face (but what do I know, I'm just a beginner). Noticed the 'gunks seems to be a good spot for tri-cams. For one placement, I would've used a tri-cam except there wasn't one on my [loaner] rack. I attempted to make do with a nut, and then endured a lecture afterwards re: my lousy placement. Clearly I'm no McGuyver. Had to hang out for a while halfway up P1 for a party of climbers to rappel over top of me. Protecting the traverse before the first belay was worthwhile practice. It was so late in the afternoon I called it quits at that stage and rapp'ed off of the station above Fingerlocks.

First climb at the 'gunks - loved it. A mentally challenging 5.3, if there is such a thing! The first move is absolutely do-able but balancy if you're short, on P2 you have to go into a chimney to get a foothold and then hang completely back out again into the air to step sideways onto a ledge - needless to say, yikes, but everything else is an absolute snap. Gorgeous view and big flowery, blueberry-covered field at the top. Walked for a couple minutes to a downclimb (which felt struggly to a wee person laden down with ropes, big pack, etc.) to a 2-rope rappell off of Madame G.s. While climbing, crisscrossed with climbers who had lost their way on things like Beginner's Delight (left of this climb) and Tipsy Trees (right of this climb).

Even though the grade of this is 5.3, and the first 2 pitches are very easy, you may want to invite a trad leader that will lead at least the average 5.8. Everyone who tried the third pitch said there was a 5.7 move on it, which spooked our lead climbers to the point where we had to skip P3. Other excitements: The start had a balancy move that required us to spot the lead climber (the word Spot never normally comes into play on a 5.3, does it?), followed by a creepy sideways lean I would also not want to do on lead, even though it's easy. At the P1 belay station I took over belaying so our lead climber could keep moving, and a [literal] swarm of bumblebees and wasps surrounded me and stayed the whole time I was belaying. I pretended I was a beekeeper, did not swat them or anything, and did not get stung. I watched hundreds of wasps go in and out of a hole at the base of the tree there. If you're allergic, you may wish to hang out behind that tree on a massive ledge that fits 3-4 people nicely, and keep a hand on your epi-pen. Otherwise, fabulous and easy.

This wall is unbelievably FULL SUN! Blistering hot rocks made me dip into a chalk bag for the first time ever outside the gym. Last move of traverse at end of first pitch, followed by a couple of enormous loose rocks (first move on second pitch, and last move on 3rd pitch) added to the threat of heatstroke made this a thrilling 5.4! Instead of taking a long free-hanging rappell off of "Fat Boy" (don't worry, 2 60m ropes will still hit the ground), walked off the top for 5 minutes, crossed the road back to the main parking lot, and drove at top speed to the swimming hole. A couple minutes under that ice-cold waterfall cooled everyone right down. :)

This climb is a big pain in the butt. The first bolt is really far off the ground and when you are getting lowered it is hard to get close enough to the draws to clean it. Last year I seconded it, struggled while unclipping a draw and my belayer had the nerve to say it was because I was weighting the rope! This year I led it, but I still think it kind of sucks, and is pretty hard for a 5.6.

I was forced to lead this! But it was fun and easy.

This was something I tried climbing my first weekend at the NRG. I fell, messed up my plantar fascia and had to limp all the way back to the cars with everyone yelling, Out of the Way, Here Comes an Injured Climber! How embarassing. This year I had to climb it, but don't recommend it. Awkward, muddy, and no fun for the short.

I thought this was a fun, easy climb.

A very nice, easy climb. Pay attention when you get lowered off of it or you will spin around and bash into things.

Anchors are pretty goofy.