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Up to #3 Camalot, can be done with less. Best to go light - set of nuts and small to medium cams - s
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Description:
Nice route, great for multipitch beginners. Kind of like going for a hike on the side of a rock. You always have a nice view while belaying. First 5 belays are at giant eyebolts, with the last bolt at the top right of the 'C'. For the standard 6th pitch, go up and slightly left above the belay to a very easy steep section and continue up excellently featured rock almost 200 feet to a great belay (look carefully for a large hole to thread and a rock horn to sling). For the 7th pitch, traverse right to a large chockstone that allows you to step over the 'gash' and continue up the runout crux to the summit. A direct sixth pitch, that is right after you leave the last eyebolt, and cross the 'gash', you can keep climbing until you get to the top of the gash if you have a 60 m rope. It is really tight to make it to this belay, but its a great place to belay because of the crack, ledge and big boulder which accompany it. Be sure to allow plenty of time if you are belaying all of the 7 pitches.
Submitted by: mountainmonkey on 2002-09-04
Views: 3799
Route ID: 5956
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
A whole new kind of climbing
This was my first what you might call "trad" route. It made for a decent opportunity to practice placing gear, but obvious placements are few and far between, and after awhile I just decided to go without it. There were a few spots where it seemed necessary... between eyebolts 2 and 3, as this pitch is super-long. I barely made it to the 3rd eyebolt with a 50m. Also, going from the 5th eyebolt, we chose to stay left of the "channel/gash" and there is a little mantle move, which protects pretty easily. After that, it's smooth sailing. After rapping, we chose to scramble off to the southwest (right, if you're facing the wall). This certainly is not the way, and I would encourage others to learn from our mistake.
Added: 2010-08-17
