Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

NateDaTater's Logbook (33 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (0)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide

> >|

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Flatirons - Third Flatiron: East Face

Standard East Face popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A whole new kind of climbing

This was my first what you might call "trad" route. It made for a decent opportunity to practice placing gear, but obvious placements are few and far between, and after awhile I just decided to go without it. There were a few spots where it seemed necessary... between eyebolts 2 and 3, as this pitch is super-long. I barely made it to the 3rd eyebolt with a 50m. Also, going from the 5th eyebolt, we chose to stay left of the "channel/gash" and there is a little mantle move, which protects pretty easily. After that, it's smooth sailing. After rapping, we chose to scramble off to the southwest (right, if you're facing the wall). This certainly is not the way, and I would encourage others to learn from our mistake.

Added: 2010-08-17

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: North Central Range: Cecil Ville Slab: Cecil Ville Slab

Zebra Walk Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

Full 50m rope. 8 bolts. A little roof at the beginning, and a little desperation at the end.

Added: 2010-07-20

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: North Central Range: Cecil Ville Slab: Cecil Ville Slab

Pigpen Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-07-20

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Portland Metro Area: French's Dome: French's Dome

(20) Giant's Staircase popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Beautiful view from the top

This climb has a lot of considerations to keep in mind. The first set of accessible anchors are on a very large ledge that does not provide anchors/bolts for more than three people to be clipped in. However, others can easily hang out unprotected. In my opinion, however, this anchor should be skipped under pretty much any/all circumstances. Any length of rope longer than 40m will reach the second anchor (the one straight up the 'Static Cling' bolt line), and the climbing is closely protected all the way up to it. You can either choose to go up over the bulge or around the right side of it. There are the super large Metolius rappel bolts here, along with scattered SMC bolts that make it easy for extra climbers to clip in and hang out. From here, you can go straight up the the three-bolt line of 'Static Cling', or move to the right past a conglomerate of bolts and old crap (which some books call an "anchor"... eww) and up the easy but runout romp to the top. There are only two bolts on this last section, but the climbing is 5.4 at most. Clip into any of the three bolts/rings at the top and belay from a standing position. If you wanted to do it all in one go, a 60m will reach the top from the ground, and a 50m will suffice for 'Static Cling', but this would make commands very difficult to hear and there would likely be significant rope drag and/or potential of swinging on a top-rope fall. Might be a good idea if for some reason you're in a hurry. The view from the top is stellar... and is a wonderfully romantic perch as well as a cool camping spot. A rappel anchor is located at the top of the road face, and one 50m is more than sufficient to get to the ground. Don't forget to take it all in... and check out the doodles left by past climbers. A very worthwhile finish!

BEWARE: There is a lot of loose rock around the ledges and the top, and holds have been known to snap off.

Added: 2010-05-08

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 16. The Marsupial Crags and Surrounding Areas: Brogan Spire Complex

Barred Reality Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Only did the first pitch

Trying to avoid the crowds, we had to go all the way to Brogan Spire to find some peace and quiet. Alas, there were eight people on Cave Route, and some friends were on the nearby .10's, so after glancing at Watts' new guide decided to do the this multi-pitcher while we waited for things to clear out. The .10a rating it gives the start is absolutely sandbagged, as is the bouldery start to the 2nd pitch. Our third companion couldn't make the start, so we opted to rappel from the first anchor. After accidentally knocking some boulders off the left (west) side of where the route starts with the rope, we descended with two 60m ropes (one 70m would probably be fine). We then tried to pull the ropes, but they were stuck fast. After yarding on them for awhile, we were only able to ascertain that they must be stuck near the very top. Without another rope or anyone nearby to help out, I then attempted to prussik up the ropes to free them and rappel through a draw. Alas, not wanting to do the start free and without a crash pad, I tried starting to the left (where the rocks had been dislodged earlier). Only 8 feet up the ropes knocked off a guillotine flake that could very easily have severed my left index finger, and did sever a vein in my right hand and seriously contuse my right knee. The ropes have not yet been recovered as of 4/26/10. They have a note on them offering a reward for its safe return to their proper owner (me). PM if you know anything about them. Moral of the story...

BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK!!!!!!

4/27 EDIT: Ropes recovered. Thanks Jack!

Added: 2010-04-26

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 01. Picnic Lunch Wall Area: Picnic Lunch Wall

Teddy Bear's Picnic Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

1st pitch only

Added: 2010-04-26

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 04. The Dihedrals: Left

Captain Xenolith ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-04-26

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Southwest Washington: Columbia River Gorge: Ozone

Numb Nuts Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-04-20

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 03. Morning Glory Wall Area: The Peanut

Pop Goes the Nubbin ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 07. Smith Rock Group: Phoenix Buttress

Phoenix **** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NateDaTater on 2010-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-03-30

> >|