Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Carbs and Caffeine - 5.11a popular
Average Rating : 4.55 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 370
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
G
Standard Gunks rack.
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Start: On the arête to the right of Airy Aria. Pitch 1: Climb the arête and crack to the Airy Aria belay ledge (5.8+) (rap bolts & chains). Pitch 2: Climb the corner to the overhang. Work straight up to a creative no-hands stance below the next overhang. Traverse left about 8 ft. and climb the overhangs past two bolts. Diagonal up right to the huge roof (optional hanging belay). Traverse left about 10 ft. and work up to a scrunched position below the next roof. Traverse right to the nose (harder if taller) and up to the top (5.11a). As of 7/9/2015, the old manky bolt has been replaced with a new one.
Submitted by: interniq on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2015-10-13
Views: 3013
Route ID: 40234
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Awesome roof!
This was most likely the largest roof system I've ever climbed, yet not nearly as hard as it looked. If you pitch off near the end, you'll be learning how to prussic or waiting for a rescue! I really wanted to break it up into 3 pitches, like the book suggested, because my girlfriend was following and I was already pumped below the last roof. I looked for a belay, but could not find one because nearly all of the rock consisted of loose plates. She suggested I just link the last two pitches, so I climbed the final roof with just one piece. As I pulled the lip onto the face, I was looking at a rediculously huge, yet safe and clean fall. I really did not want to fall, so I managed to flail through the last few moves. When she cleaned it, she got up to the last roof and pumped out, taking a HUGE pendulum (clean but scary swing). We were both glad I only placed one piece on the final roof, because it made cleaning and hauling much easier. Again, it is a very clean, safe fall, for both the leader and second, even without much gear, because you are 90 feet out on the rope and 150 feet of the deck!
Moral of the story, place gear often and early, because you'll want (have?) to run it out in the end!
Moral of the story, place gear often and early, because you'll want (have?) to run it out in the end!
Added: 2010-10-10
