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Description:
The clean right facing dihedral down left of the North Ridge. P1- 5.8+ Go up the corner to where it ends and angle up and right below the roof to a stance around the right side of the roof and belay. Good gear for the belay (small to Hand size). P2- 5.8 The dihedral above is obvious, follow it up and around until you can traverse right to a brushy ledge. Can use the 3 pin anchor on the far right side of the ledge (belay anchors for North Ridge). Great Route with excellent gear
Submitted by: fanederhand on 2004-07-12
Views: 2305
Route ID: 5392
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Fantastic
Great route with a nice mix of climbing types and great pro the whole way. The start corner had a few mini-cruxes and will test your calf strength (esp after the hike in) but stemming and resting where possible make it not too bad. Exit into a traverse that grabs your attention b/c it's back to Table Rock slab for a moment with one final tricky crux to exit to the "it's RIGHT there..." belay.
Was surprised that you don't have to really undercling the corner the whole way on P2 as there are good horizontals to work with on the face too but it's still got some 5.8 action at a couple points when you are focused on the corner exclusively. Really cool feature.
Traverse is obvious, gears well and is exposed. Nice dirt/moss ledge towards the end to build a comfy standing gear belay.
Note that as of this ascent the middle pin at the top of North Ridge was loose - in fact someone pulled it out with their fingers.
Was surprised that you don't have to really undercling the corner the whole way on P2 as there are good horizontals to work with on the face too but it's still got some 5.8 action at a couple points when you are focused on the corner exclusively. Really cool feature.
Traverse is obvious, gears well and is exposed. Nice dirt/moss ledge towards the end to build a comfy standing gear belay.
Note that as of this ascent the middle pin at the top of North Ridge was loose - in fact someone pulled it out with their fingers.
Added: 2010-10-24
