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Bolee Gold - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Premier Sponsor:
Garry Anderson, Jay Smith, Rick Sumner (1977)
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Draws, Nuts 1set, Cams, few .5"-1.5"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c V0 WI1 A0 M1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.17/5
  Fun Factor 4.17/5

Description:

Starts just to the left of Hookers Haven and takes the most direct line up the south face. Pitch 1: Climbs a well bolted steep face that traverses slightly to the left. Good pockets and crimps on high quality rock. Skip the first set of (hanging belay) anchors and continue up to the next set about 10ft higher for a good stance. Pitch 2: Climbs up good holds to a small flake. The angle backs off after the flake and larger holds and knobs appear. Some gear can be found as well as knob tie offs between bolts. Stop at the belay anchors at a good ledge. Pitch 3: Winds its way up somewhat slabby face with smaller holds and few cracks. Some pro can be found between bolts.

Descent Options:

Rap the route with a 60m rope. Watch the ends of your rope because a 60m will use intermediate anchors as it will fall short of the belay anchors.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-01-26
Views: 1472
Route ID: 91921

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: aerili on 2010-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Climbed with Karsten. He linked p1-2; I linked p3-4. Sustained, hard 10 moves! A few bolts up, there was a move I simply could not reach and fell off. Multiple deadpoint attempts and I finally stuck it! Would be easy to latch if you are well over 5'6". P3-4 is extremely run-out: 4 pieces in 200 feet. An amazing and wild route!

Added: 2010-11-07