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Birdland - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.11/5 Average Rating : 4.11 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 22
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Rock
Standard rack to 3", 2 60m ropes to rappel (or 1 70m rope)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.91/5
  Rock Quality 4.11/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.26/5

Description:

This is a fun 5 pitch route that climbs the face just to the left of Spectrum. Look for the large roofs on the Brass Wall Left, and start about 30 feet left of the bottom roof. It may share a pitch or two with an old Joe Herbst route called The Big Horn. Start on the black face to the left of Spectrum.

P1 Follow the left-most crack up 100 ft. to a bushy ledge with a bolted belay. (5.6)
P2 Chimney or face leads to another bushy ledge with loose rock. A variation to this pitch is to climb right of the chimney over an easy but slightly overhanging face. (5.7)
P3 Go up the ramp slightly right and then follow the left leaning (right facing) cool crack left 20 feet to a bolt. Straight up the small overhang to a face and a slanting bolted station. (5.7)
P4 Angle slightly right across the white face and up towards the large black face to another two bolt station. Look for the slight concave section of the wall at the skyline. This is where you want to head. Excellent face climbing, using pods and hidden cracks for pro. (5.6)
P5 From the belay go right towards the crack and then follow this to the final belay. An awesome finger crack finishes off this pitch. Very worth while.
P6 Looks like chossy rope-eating loose rock, not worth it.

Descent: Rap the entire route. Pitch 5 requires two ropes or a 70 m. The other pitches can be rapped with one 60m. Pitch 2 requires a 10 foot downclimb through an easy chimney if you want to rap it with one 60m.

Submitted by: nieder on 2005-12-05
Views: 4157
Route ID: 48294

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Some Good Stuff

There are several stellar pitches but the last pitch and the first pitch are nothing to write home about. I was a little disapointed to learn the finger crack was only like 30 ft. long. Pictures make it look a lot longer. Still fun climbing. A little windy.

Added: 2011-04-18