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Description:
Take long runners and keep and eye out for jugs on both faces. The second belay (or possibly the third) is spectacular. Can be done in two pitches.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2006-05-15
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 2510
Route ID: 11820
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Great Route
Did it in 4 pitches, traded leads. Top of the first pitch felt harder than the crux 3rd pitch to me.
First pitch there was a cord around a chockstone (prob 90 feet) but I kept going up through the overhang to a good belay there. Two options for the end of that pitch - either stay in the maybe awkward corner but get good gear or step out right and face climb easy flat shelf jugs about 15-20' without pro. I chose the face and got a crappy flared small alien that probably wasn't going to do much. Fun overhang with jugs wraps up P1, at least the way we did it.
P2 - very short and pretty easy but ended at a wide constriction where lots of large loose rocks get piled up. This is rather a dangerous place since careless feeding ropes can pull these off and send them down. In fact while we were getting started the party ahead of us sent a couple flying down, one of which nearly took out my partner.
P3 - go right and it's pretty easy. Crux is one face move to a small roof, then pull roof with good pro. Wonder if anyone goes straight up? Looked intriguing but a good bit harder. Very exposed belay on a small ledge with good gear. Photo op.
P4 - Longish section of easy climbing and scramble through the brush till you top out. Nice views up here.
Probably possible to combine pitches 1+2 and 3+4 although we didn't try.
Very nice climb. Thought it had more quality pitches than the Daddy (up the gorge a bit). Definitely a bit harder, but still quite reasonable.
First pitch there was a cord around a chockstone (prob 90 feet) but I kept going up through the overhang to a good belay there. Two options for the end of that pitch - either stay in the maybe awkward corner but get good gear or step out right and face climb easy flat shelf jugs about 15-20' without pro. I chose the face and got a crappy flared small alien that probably wasn't going to do much. Fun overhang with jugs wraps up P1, at least the way we did it.
P2 - very short and pretty easy but ended at a wide constriction where lots of large loose rocks get piled up. This is rather a dangerous place since careless feeding ropes can pull these off and send them down. In fact while we were getting started the party ahead of us sent a couple flying down, one of which nearly took out my partner.
P3 - go right and it's pretty easy. Crux is one face move to a small roof, then pull roof with good pro. Wonder if anyone goes straight up? Looked intriguing but a good bit harder. Very exposed belay on a small ledge with good gear. Photo op.
P4 - Longish section of easy climbing and scramble through the brush till you top out. Nice views up here.
Probably possible to combine pitches 1+2 and 3+4 although we didn't try.
Very nice climb. Thought it had more quality pitches than the Daddy (up the gorge a bit). Definitely a bit harder, but still quite reasonable.
Added: 2011-05-09
