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McCarthy West Face Variant - 5.10b
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 180
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Description:
Take the West Face Approach. The route is two cracks left of the El Mat stem box. Pitch 1 (100 ft, 5.9) From the belay on the ledge-bench-slot, The crux is about 15 feet up. Protect, Reach High, Pull Hard !!! Continue up the crack to the top of the column which has tapered to a large flake. Belay from a 2 Big Bolt anchor. Pitch 2 (155 ft, 5.10b) From the belay , climb up the left-most of the available cracks, to a tiring stance underneath the roof. It is wise to set pro, back under the roof, then work out to the lip, clip the bolt, back it up with pro over the roof, and then back clean the pieces, back under the roof. This process should give you maximal overhead protection when you pull the roof (crux) and a minimum of rope drag. Jam and / or stem up the long crack and set a welcome belay from a bolt anchor on the column top to the right. One fine , well protected pitch !! Pitch 3 (50 ft, 5.8) Hand jam a splendid pitch to the next column top. Bolt anchor belay. Pitch 4 (60 ft, 5.7) Traverse left directly from the belay ledge, then hand and fist jam the crack, turning the roofs on their left. Belay on the spacious West Face Ledge. Pitch 5 ( 90 ft,5.8) From the West Ledges, climb the right most crack. This is offwidth / chimney climbing. Two steeper sections provide the difficulty, the second being the hardest. Natural chockstones and big pieces provide the protection. Belay at a large and comforting ledge, just past the second difficult section Finish (65 ft, 5.5) Climb the obvious, wide left crack which wanders slightly left, to the summit.
Submitted by: jcinco on 2006-08-22
Views: 2175
Route ID: 51360
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Good route
And this one takes cams too.
Added: 2012-10-02
