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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Standard rack: larger nuts, cams to 3"
90
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Description:
Look for an obvious crack that goes nearly all the way up. It's has some pretty wide sections and has a face climbing start on top of a small buttress. The top of the route is unprotectable and kind of runout to the chains. Suggest bringing shoes to walk down the backside unless you want to leave a rap sling. --- VALYGRL's edits: walk off, don't rap. "Runout" is maybe 15 feet of 5.2. RicardoL's edit: the guidebook shows 2 fixed piton -- after the first one, you'll also find a nut that has been hopelessly stuck, and the the 2nd piton has been replaced by a bolt. playouts1de's edit: That nut wasnt that hard to pull....and I thought it safer to pull the frayed nut as opposed to leaving it for future use/failure. Its on my rear view mirror if anyone wants to reclaim it ;) MattL edit: There is an easy rappel for this route - about 20 feet to the right there is a giant boulder above the ledge with 2 bolts and rap rings. A 60m rope just barely reaches the ground at the start of the climb. Top-roping this route can be tricky due to a bit of a swing - suggest using slings with the fixed pitons as directionals to top-rope. * I am the proud owner of so called "Stuck" nut. hahaDescent Options:
Rap from chains or walk off.
Submitted by: ricardol on 2007-01-15
Last Modified: 2013-01-06
Views: 2931
Route ID: 12767
Ascent Note:
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Ascent Note
Been a while since I've been on it, but I recall lots of loose flakes to climb, next to the crack. The top bolt was horrible, I think its been replaced. A nice 5.6, but I dont think the rock is up to holding a fall. Choose the pro carefully.
Added: 1998-03-17
