Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
Three bolts down low and cams from .5"-1.5" up high. Small hexes and tricams useful. Bolt anchors.
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
One 110' pitch. The first bolt is about 20'-25' off the deck and there's only a blue Alien placement before that (down low). Very sustained 5.7 and a kinda scary lead for the grade. The first crux comes just after clipping the first bolt. Physically, it's easy, but psychologically it's a little rough. The next comes just before making the second clip (or after, if you're tall). After the third bolt, there's a crack to protect, and the climbing feels easier. Rap from the anchors with one 70 meter or two 60 meter ropes. davidji's edit: one 60m rope should be fine if you don't mind downclimbing the first maybe 10 feet of the climb.
Submitted by: davidji on 2006-06-01
Views: 2413
Route ID: 59121
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Stiff
Amanda led this, and it seemed pretty stiff for 5.7. Sustained, a little runout, and not great protection. I found it harder than the 5.9 next to it.
There's 3 bolts that could use longer slings. Otherwise some small crack exist - but still felt runout in places. Despite what supertopo says - I don't think anything larger than .75 would go. 70m rope just barely makes it to rap/tr - actually had have the climber solo a few feet to clip the belay in. Make sure to tie knots in the end.
It was a fun climb, though not quite the amazing status supertopo gave. A mix of styles, but mostly some small holds on horizontal dikes, a little balance-y
There's 3 bolts that could use longer slings. Otherwise some small crack exist - but still felt runout in places. Despite what supertopo says - I don't think anything larger than .75 would go. 70m rope just barely makes it to rap/tr - actually had have the climber solo a few feet to clip the belay in. Make sure to tie knots in the end.
It was a fun climb, though not quite the amazing status supertopo gave. A mix of styles, but mostly some small holds on horizontal dikes, a little balance-y
Added: 2015-05-02
