Venusian Blind Arete (IV) 5.7*** - 5.7

This route was A BLAST. Absolutely fun. For one of us it was the first time on a long Alpine route, for another of us it may end up being the last, and for me it was just a darned good time. We started the climb with a beautiful sunrise and the for the approach and lower third of the route the weather was good. Just before the step across to the main Arete, pitch 6 I believe, the clouds had built and it started to rain. Taking the "Bold 5.6" as the McNamara guide called it I was having the time of my life in a light drizzle. By the time Jonathan reached the belay it was a full blown showers, and by the time Larry got there we were in a light hailstorm, . At this point retreat was not an option nor was it necessary the lightning was at least two miles away so we kept climbing. After about 20 minutes or so the weather let up a bit and by the time we reached the 5.6 friction pitch pitch 10 ?(super easy, even wet) the rock had dried just a bit. Given the fact that there had been some lighting activity and that the clouds were looking seriously ominous I presented our options to all parties suggesting that it might be a little reckless to stay on the exposed ridge in order to bag the summit, so we escaped into the gully after pitch 11, 4th classed to the summit plateau, snapped a few photos and then descended in rain and heavy wind. As we were rapping the descent to Contact Pass with sporadic lightning far in the distance and a light rain falling in heavy winds I muttered to myself "This is why I climb in the mountains". It was a truly beautiful day. No Summit, but success nonetheless.