Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
George and Joanne Urioste
Rock (Trad)
Aid
PG13
9
13+ quickdraws, lightweight aiders or long slings, set of nuts, set of cams .6" - 2"
1000
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
This actually a (5.10 A0) 9 pitch climb with lots of bolts, but this is no sport climb. P1 - (.8) dihedral and crack to a belay ledge with bolts, 200' P2 - (.10) move right past two bolts, (use long slings on these to avoid rope drag), follow a seam left past 8 more bolts to a belay stance atop a block, 150' P3 - (.10) straight up white face past many bolts, (lost count), to a bolted anchor, 90' P4 - (.9) follow nine bolts to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay, 110' P5 - (.10) move right to ledge and then up past several bolts to a bolted belay, 60' P6 - (.8 A0) follow a thin crack to a bulge then aid out the bulge, 8 bolts, to another bolted belay, 60' P7 (.10) follow a corner/groove to the next anchors, 100' P8 (.9) go up and left in a corner in a corner past 4 old bolts, (rest of the route has new bolts), to a ledge, belay here (130') or run it out up an easy corner to the top (50' more). You can hike off the top or rap the route from the top of P7. If you are wanting to rap and loose track where you are at on the climb, do not climb past the old bolts, there are no bolt anchors above at this time. If I do this route again, I'll rap it.Descent Options:
Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off if you top out.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-03-14
Views: 2397
Route ID: 31463
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
A little headscratcher at the top. After the bolt ladder, there was a hard .10 pitch which was short at 4 bolts at about 70 feet long. The descriptions says it's 100' and 7 bolts. Looking up at the "next" pitch, I counted 7 or 8 new bolts going up and left for probably 120 to 150' to the next horizon line, presumably a ledge (the topo for the next-to-last pitch 8 had 4 bolts going up and left). But we'd left packs (and dogs!) at the bottom and didn't want to chance not having a rap anchor.
Added: 2005-10-30
