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Happy's Logbook (11 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Bonsai

Social Outcast Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2007-05-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Easier if tall?

Great pump. Is the first ring pin safe? Have the upper bolts been replaced (I didn't notice)? Otherwise, great climbing. Three attempts in four years - about time I came back to it.

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Cathedral Ledge: Airation Buttress

Airation Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2007-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route, good stances for pro - too short!

Not really harder than Ethereal, just more vertical and longer (with better finger locks). I was going to do the second pitch, but it is REALLY dirty (the 5.7 corner). Also, don't get fooled into doing the 5.11R vertical crack that continues slightly left of the first pitch. Better to rap after the first pitch.

Added: 2007-05-09

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: New Wave Wall

Weevil Knevil Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2007-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars sequence is everything

bouldery crux at the bottom has an easier sequence to the left. Hang a long draw if you're going for a redpoint. Top is all about sequence.

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Pulse Wall

Pulse Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2006-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice route

I think it's easiest to hand traverse right at the end, then top out. Climbed the route once a few years ago - came back and got it first try.

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Western Wy.: Grand Teton NP: Death Canyon

The Snaz Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wow

Amazing! You can rap the whole thing if you end after P9 (?) - need 2 ropes for this.

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: South Western Colorado: Ophir Wall: Cracked Canyon

Orange Peel Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good all the way up

good pro - top bulge finishing right (I'm not sure if the right finish is called Orange Peel) is definitely the way to go. Watch out for kicking a few loose pebbles down.

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: High Peaks: Rocky Mountain National Park: Longs Peak

Casual Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars accumulated fatigue

Great route. I'm quite solid at the grade, but I was tired (also 3rd day in a row and acclimatizing). I got tired leading the long 5.8 corner, and grunted through the chimney before the crux bulge. The crux protects very well - it's not hard, it's just at the end of the route. Great day, only ones on the Diamond or Chasm View at all! Three snow squalls, but no lightning. Rappel route is VERY confusing (bolt stations are hard to find, one missing on lower slabs?)

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: High Peaks: Rocky Mountain National Park: Spearhead

The Barb Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route - not too committing

I think the pin was still there. I seem to remember a bolt, as well (I'm recording this a year later). The crux was very short, and you're on a level with your belayer. After the crux pitch, we traversed around to the back side (North ridge?) b/c I wasn't sure if we were on a dead end.

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars can be wet at top

Climbed it once the previous year, but it was wet at the top. The first move is very reachy, but otherwise, I think 11b is the right grade (isn't that what the guidebook pegs it at?)

Added: 2007-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Hinterlands

Giant Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2005-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Worth doing!

If you climb 5.12 at all, get on this route. The roof climbing is not hard. Great heel hook rest at the lip. Try to clip the bolt before pulling the lip (which is technical). Good rest after pulling the lip, then tricky upper moves - but if it were a boulder problem on the ground, it'd be easy.

Added: 2007-05-18

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