Routes : Reviews
Happy's Logbook (11 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
|
Comments: Show | Hide
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Bonsai
Social Outcast Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.12b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2007-05-14
(View Climbing Log)
Easier if tall?
Great pump. Is the first ring pin safe? Have the upper bolts been replaced (I didn't notice)? Otherwise, great climbing. Three attempts in four years - about time I came back to it.
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Cathedral Ledge: Airation Buttress
Airation Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2007-05-08
(View Climbing Log)
Great route, good stances for pro - too short!
Not really harder than Ethereal, just more vertical and longer (with better finger locks). I was going to do the second pitch, but it is REALLY dirty (the 5.7 corner). Also, don't get fooled into doing the 5.11R vertical crack that continues slightly left of the first pitch. Better to rap after the first pitch.
Added: 2007-05-09
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: New Wave Wall
Weevil Knevil Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2007-05-06
(View Climbing Log)
sequence is everything
bouldery crux at the bottom has an easier sequence to the left. Hang a long draw if you're going for a redpoint. Top is all about sequence.
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Pulse Wall
Pulse Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2006-11-09
(View Climbing Log)
nice route
I think it's easiest to hand traverse right at the end, then top out. Climbed the route once a few years ago - came back and got it first try.
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Western Wy.: Grand Teton NP: Death Canyon
The Snaz Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-08-18
(View Climbing Log)
Wow
Amazing! You can rap the whole thing if you end after P9 (?) - need 2 ropes for this.
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: South Western Colorado: Ophir Wall: Cracked Canyon
Orange Peel Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-07-02
(View Climbing Log)
good all the way up
good pro - top bulge finishing right (I'm not sure if the right finish is called Orange Peel) is definitely the way to go. Watch out for kicking a few loose pebbles down.
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: High Peaks: Rocky Mountain National Park: Longs Peak
Casual Route popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-29
(View Climbing Log)
accumulated fatigue
Great route. I'm quite solid at the grade, but I was tired (also 3rd day in a row and acclimatizing). I got tired leading the long 5.8 corner, and grunted through the chimney before the crux bulge. The crux protects very well - it's not hard, it's just at the end of the route. Great day, only ones on the Diamond or Chasm View at all! Three snow squalls, but no lightning. Rappel route is VERY confusing (bolt stations are hard to find, one missing on lower slabs?)
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: High Peaks: Rocky Mountain National Park: Spearhead
The Barb Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-28
(View Climbing Log)
Great route - not too committing
I think the pin was still there. I seem to remember a bolt, as well (I'm recording this a year later). The crux was very short, and you're on a level with your belayer. After the crux pitch, we traversed around to the back side (North ridge?) b/c I wasn't sure if we were on a dead end.
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Parking Lot Wall
100% Columbian Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-16
(View Climbing Log)
can be wet at top
Climbed it once the previous year, but it was wet at the top. The first move is very reachy, but otherwise, I think 11b is the right grade (isn't that what the guidebook pegs it at?)
Added: 2007-05-18
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Rumney: Hinterlands
Giant Man Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.12b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Happy on 2005-11-04
(View Climbing Log)
Worth doing!
If you climb 5.12 at all, get on this route. The roof climbing is not hard. Great heel hook rest at the lip. Try to clip the bolt before pulling the lip (which is technical). Good rest after pulling the lip, then tricky upper moves - but if it were a boulder problem on the ground, it'd be easy.
Added: 2007-05-18