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theonlyrealj's Logbook (25 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Lower Looner Land

Moon Floss Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First bolt needs to be redone!

First bolt seems a little lose, I had to push it back into the wall (it was protruding about an inch!). Good climb nevertheless

Added: 2008-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall

Pushin' Your Luck Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2008-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Not a 5.9

Great route, solid holds, good bolts. The top is a little overdone with two bolts and two chains. I'd give it a 5.7, maybe a 5.8 at the overhand. Its not bad!

Added: 2008-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall

Devil in Disguise Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2008-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Description is accurate

This route is short, hard at first, like a 5.8 after that.

Added: 2008-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall

Totally Trad Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2008-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Great Basalt!

Nice moves, a little run out for the first bolt, but the difficulty matches it.

Added: 2008-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Lower Looner Land

Snorkeling in the Rhyolite Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just right

This is an easy climb. For those new leaders out there, this climb may look a little run out for the first bolt, but the climbing is so easy you have nothing to worry about.

Added: 2007-11-25

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Lost Wall (Upper Devils)

True North Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good warm-up

Start to the far right on top of the small boulder and the route is definitely a 5.6, only about 25 feet high.

Added: 2007-05-30

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Lost Wall (Upper Devils)

Projectiles Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Climb, but really fun lead

I've top roped this climb many times but today was my first lead on this climb. It is a great climb, good holds, however the ledge by the roof before the last bolt is a little run out I placed a cam just to be safe. Watch out for the ants on the wall in the summer time!

Added: 2007-05-30

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Atlantis (The Road Area)

Sir Charles Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice Climb, but not a 5.10a

Placed some protection for the chimney at the beginning then 5 bolts to the two rap chains. Very well protected, the bolts are just the right length apart. My first, semi fall (about a two foot fall above the bolt)! I really believe this is a 5.9.

Added: 2007-05-17

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Summit,, South

South Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Really good rock quality for Pinnacle Peak

This was my first trad ascent. Not bad at all, a classic beginner as the guide says. For those concerned about another climbers ascent record saying that you need to be a 5.9 trad leader to comfortably do this climb, just know that I disagree. It is an excellent beginner trad climb. In fact, it might be called mixed because there are two places that are bolted. The cracks swallowed cams great and the exposure keeps the climb interesting even with the 5.3 rating (I personally would rate it a 5.6, but trad ratings might be different). For the reluctant trad newbie I would really recommend this climb, however, make sure you are given proper training before attempting a trad climb!!!

Added: 2007-05-08

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Pond area

Follow Your Heart Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: theonlyrealj on 2007-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars One of the better easy climbs at the pond

The climb between the last bolt and the top makes this one a 5.8+ in my opinion. Very good climbing and works your brain just as much as your body!

Added: 2007-04-28

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