snaze's Logbook (33 ascents)

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Scarface Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

My pick for the best sport route at nemo central... A bit of everything, with a painful [and crucial] fingerlock thrown in for good measure. Wear tape - it hurts less.

Added: 2005-09-20

Weak And Fat, will work for Asparagus Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

The 'least painful' of the hard climbs here. Maybe when it loses its loose tooth the ante will go up. Very fun and pumpy.

Added: 2005-09-20

Enchiridion Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

Easily as hard as Fear + Loathing / Train in Vain. Either they are 11d or this is 12a. Excellent sustained difficulty; it doesn't let up. My buddy fell from the anchors - thats a big whipper!

Added: 2005-09-20

Crazy Doctor Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

A nice contrast to other hard routes at nemo that tend to have pumpy steep cruxes; the crux on this is a hard series of hand bumps, then dyno to a jug. The rest is cake.

Added: 2005-09-20

High Society Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Onsight ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

AMAZING!!! Great exposure, nice wide bolts spacing - more like trad climbing. You may want more than a couple of nuts - 3 or 4 small cams make the lower section more palatable. Full 30m to anchors, put long slings on bolts and especially gear under the roof to lower rope drag. Makes the 10's in the central area look like 5.6's.

Added: 2005-09-20

Trajectissima Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Top Rope ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

Very intimidating line; tried it on top-rope, and amazingly the overhung off-widthy bit at the bottom actually IS easy... Gotta go back for the lead. Essentially, a hard version of High Society, arguably even better. [ie makes the 11's at nemo central look like 5.7's!] Crux is at the very end. Shake out at the big block.

Added: 2005-09-20

Make My Day Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

Very difficult after the third bolt UNTIL you realize what they mean by 'whined' your way. Go right, up, then traverse WAY left. Good rest leads to more [less significant] difficulties at the top. Very dirty when I tried it, with a total absence of chalk [nice for Nemo!], a superabundance of large nasty spiders and vegetation hiding some key holds in cracks at the top. Would be a worthwhile endeavour if it was cleaned up a bit. The top is very high quality.

Added: 2005-09-20

Missing Toe Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Onsight ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

People - place a nut in the crack. Thats what its there for. Otherwise you will get hurt.

Added: 2005-09-20

Butterfingers Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

pretty relaxed for the grade, but a quality fun climb

Added: 2005-09-20

Eric's First Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point ascent by: snaze on 2005-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

very nice crack leads to unprotected overhung moves at the top - they were a little scary but no harder than 5.6. Bring RP's or small nuts.

Added: 2005-09-20

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