Mount Nemo
Climbing Sections:
- Big Gulp Area (11)
- Camel Wall (9)
- Central Wall Area (15)
- Gooseberry Wall (3)
- Ground Zero Area (8)
- Helmut (3)
- Iguana Wall (13)
- Morphine Ledge (6)
- Nemo Central (22)
- Nemo North (6)
- Nemo Quarry (11)
- Nemo South (43)
- The Big Section (8)
- The Castle Wall (2)
- The Cat's Tail Area (8)
- The Central Zone (8)
- The Club Wall, aka Alfred Wall (10)
- The Dead Zone (6)
- The Ivory Tower (5)
- The New Wall (8)
- The Vine Wall (0)
- White Trash Area (5)
About Mount Nemo:
The cliff has a unique character, both in it's dark atmosphere and varied climbing. It receives little sunshine, and the majority of the base is covered in a dense bush except for a small trail. The sport climbs tend to be on edges, and almost all are well bolted. Although there are numerous excellent climbs here, there are also several exceptionally bad climbs which you will want to avoid. Due to the large number of hikers that use the cliff, as well as an increasing number of climbers, the cliff's ancient white cedars are under stress. It is essential that climbers take great care to protect any trees on the face, edge and bottom of the cliff. A top rope ban has been implemented at Mount Nemo and Kelso Conservation Areas to protect the Ancient White Cedars and other tree species along the brow of the escarpment. Lead or trad climbing is still permitted and Conservation Halton in currently working with the Ontario Access Coalition to bolt both areas to assist the lead climbing community. |
Nearest town or city: | Milton |
Directions: | From southern Toronto: take the Gardiner Expressway west to the Q.E.W. Follow the Q.E.W. until you reach Guelph Line exit #102. Take Guelph Line north approximately 10km to Colling road; parking for Mount Nemo is on the right. From north Toronto: take the 401 west to Guelph Line exit #312. Follow Guelph Line south approximately 12.5km, just after you pass through the small town of Lowville you will reach Colling road; parking for Mount Nemo is on the left. From Buffalo: take the Q.E.W. to Guelph Line Exit #102. Take Guelph Line north approximately 10km to Colling road; parking for Mount Nemo is on the right. |
Latitude, Longitude: | 43.42266, -79.87674 |
Access Issues: | A ban on top roping is in effect. Do not sling Cedars for anchors and pad all other trees. |
Camping: | No |
When to Climb: | Summer |
Quantity of Climbs: | Year |