Routes : Reviews
ipsofacto's Logbook (102 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Grand Wall Boulders: Grand Wall Boulders
Technical Ecstasy
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
A fingery/technical nightmare! Start to the left of the prominent rib, and traverse right. Not one of best routes out there.
Witnessed by: Carl Forsythe
Added: 1995-09-14
Added: 1995-09-14
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Cacodemon Boulder: Cacodemon Rock
Young Blood
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
After much effort, I finally succeeded on this one. There is really only one difficult move on this climb, the rest of it being relatively straight forward. The crux hold is a sloping nightmare, and a liberal application of chalk is necessary to see you through.
Witnessed by: Carl Forsythe
Added: 1995-09-11
Added: 1995-09-11
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Murrin Park: Petrifying Wall
Animal Instinct
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
This one took a lot of effort, as I recall. I don't do a great deal of bouldering, so this one was a struggle. All of the difficulties are contained between the first few bolts, and the crux is located at the second bolt as you deadpoint with your right hand up to a side pull. This sidepull can be sen in the photograph I have submitted. It is at the 5 o'clock position in relation to the second bolt. See it? If you make it past the second bolt, then this one is in the bag.
Witnessed by: Catalin Berbec
Added: 1995-09-09
Added: 1995-09-09
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Murrin Park: Petrifying Wall
Mr Fun
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
This one is an oddy. I've climbed it only once it really didn't make much of an impreession upon me. Most of the good climbing is in the right facing corner close to the top, but to get there you have to go through much that is bland. The crux is right below the corner, and consists of a bouldery traverse to the left. Save this one for the last.
Witnessed by: Pat Montana
Added: 1995-09-09
Added: 1995-09-09
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Murrin Park: Petrifying Wall
The Fantastic Exploding Rectal Syringe
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
The best 12c on the Pet. Stays cleaner than Balck Water, or Barakka after a rain storm. There is a pump crux located parallel to the crux on Barakka on the headwall, and a technical crux on the slab just below the headwall. Don't miss this one!
Witnessed by: Pat Montana
Added: 1995-09-09
Added: 1995-09-09
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: Cocaine Gully
Freebase ****
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by:
Ascent Note
Easy for the grade, and probably closer to 11d than it is to 12a. After an easy roof move, the climbing remains sustained on positive edges right up to a move or two away from the anchors. Due to its location, this route isn't as polished as the other 12's at Smith. If you arrive at the crux fresh, then this one will be an easy onsight.
Witnessed by: Pat Montana
Added: 1995-09-09
Added: 1995-09-09
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: Cocaine Gully
Powder Up the Nose ***
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
A very enjoyable route. You will come across the odd bolt thrown in here and there for good measure. Not suited for the inexperienced leader.
Witnessed by: Pat Montana
Added: 1995-09-09
Added: 1995-09-09
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Grand Wall Boulders: Grand Wall Boulders
Archives
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
Don't trust your eyes; this is one tough climb. Watch that funky clip (3?)
Witnessed by: Pat Montana
Added: 1995-08-11
Added: 1995-08-11
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Murrin Park: Petrifying Wall
Air BC
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
I don't know why, but I steered clear of this one for quite some time. I, like many, got off-route, and almost had an introdution to whay this thing is called Air BC. Once through the crux, I'd suggest taht you traverse to the left more than you would expect to. Not a bad route, really, but probably not as hard as the given grade.
Witnessed by: Pat Montana
Added: 1995-08-09
Added: 1995-08-09
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Murrin Park: Petrifying Wall
Barakka
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Ascent Note
The 12b of choice on the Pet. The route has two distinct crux sections. The first crux is a real headache if there has been any rainfall; the sloping footholds become slick with dirt washed over the cliff. Don't worry about the run-out middle section; it is VERY easy. The last crux before the top is deceptive. My instinct was to go right, and up, but stay left if anything; it is much easier that way. In my day the bolts were beginning to show their age. God knows what they are like today.
Witnessed by: Catalin Berbec
Added: 1995-08-09
Added: 1995-08-09
