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earlethesquirrel's Logbook (82 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (2)



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Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Western Slope: Puoux: Roadside Wall

The Ballerina Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Onsight but I've done it b4 w/o documentation

Sequential crimpy start. Boulder up to the horiz. seam and clip the 1st bolt then when it's low. After that, good small holds to the chains. Good to have fresh crimp strength for the start moves.

Added: 2009-05-09

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Western Slope: Puoux: Roadside Wall

Spine Fish Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Worked the climb for a future RP

Decided to top-rope this climb that I am hesitant to lead due to the bolt spacing. I wanna have it dialed b4 I try to lead it with the groundfall potential between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Really hurt my toes standing on the small, glassy starting footholds.

Added: 2009-05-09

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Western Slope: Puoux: Roadside Wall

Roadside Attraction Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars I've done it b4 and I might do it again.

Pinkpointed the route. A little loose rock on the left hand side. Big holds and rests the whole way.

Added: 2009-05-09

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: 2nd Meat Wall

Two Timer Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good varied corner

Had a nervy time on this route. All was well until 2/3 of the way up. I desperately needed a green Fatcam and didn't have one. Had to run it out until the crack narrowed to fingers near the top. Nearly hit Greg with a dropped cam down low.

Added: 2009-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: North Sixshooter

Lightning Bolt Cracks Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Climb of a lifetime!

Got on this route with Greg and Tom. I led the first pitch no falls. Quite exciting when it gets wide! Tom led the next pitch. He decided to take the right-most crack. I thought the left crack looked easier. After falling low, he dogged up the rest of the pitch. I almost fell going from the ring-locks off the belay to the safety of the wide crack to the left. Ended up going back to the hard crack after chimneying up a bit on the left. Tough line over the roof. Greg led the last pitch. Tom went second and screwed me by not back-clipping the pieces to the roof. If I fell off before pulling the roof, oh boy, lotsa air! Got to the top and celebrated with the boys.

Added: 2009-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: Scarface wall

Where's Carruthers? Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Not my favorite climb

We did this climb to warm up for Scarface. I didn't like the claustophobic lower section because I couldn't get a good position to jam the crack. When it got wider above, I was tired from the thrutching below and had to scrape and claw to the anchor. I guess in the end, I got warmed up nicely.

Added: 2009-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: Scarface wall

Scarface popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I finally did it!

After TRing this route I think a couple of times on past trips, I finally led it. Had the most gusty strong wind going at the time. Almost got barn-doored off the low crux by the wind. Once the crack widened to hands, it was off to the races.

Added: 2009-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: Optimator wall

Chick Flick Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just another crack climb

I can't remember alot about this one. I didn't fall so it couldn't have been that hard. Straightforward crack-jamming and good rests.

Added: 2009-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: Optimator wall

Neat Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good long varied corner

Not much to remember about this climb. Typical corner that widens from fingers to hands and some fists.

Added: 2009-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: Optimator wall

Lady Pillar left Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Easy warm-up climb

Good climb to get on to warm up.

Added: 2009-05-05

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