Routes : Reviews
Alpenstock's Logbook (13 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: Oklahoma: Southwest: Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt: Atlantic
Macho Man
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Macho Man
That traverse still gets my heart a-pumpin'!!
Added: 2006-11-27
Routes: North America: United States: Oklahoma: Southwest: Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt: Atlantic
3-Bolt
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
3-Bolt
The rock just above the first belay station is really polished, but stemming off of the wall on the right makes this much more positive. There's a great bucket hold after making just a few moves off of the belay. Great photo opportunity to make it look like your second is actually leading on very exposed and vertical wall.
Added: 2006-11-27
Routes: North America: United States: Oklahoma: Southwest: Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt: South America
South Africa
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
South Africa
Used the largest tri-cam (yellow sling) to protect the short traverse left to the bottom of the chevron. Love the way this route sucks up gear where ever you want it!
Added: 2006-11-27
Routes: North America: United States: Oklahoma: Southwest: Wichita Mountains: Lost Dome
Fuson's Folly
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fuson's Folly
This is a well protected crack climb until you get to the body sized chimney. The friction climbing alternative to the body chimney probably goes at about 5.9.
Added: 2006-11-27
Routes: North America: United States: Oklahoma: Southwest: Wichita Mountains: Elk Slabs
Nike Direct
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Nike Direct
Climbed "Great Expectation" and then rapped down and over to set a TR on "Nike Direct" with the objective of working on friction technique. Perfect height for 60m rope for this drill. After running laps on TR, pulled the rope and lead it.
Staying left under the first bolt is the easier path. The crack above is super fun!! Make sure that you have a full 60m rope, or you won't make it to the belay bolts after the crack runs out.
Staying left under the first bolt is the easier path. The crack above is super fun!! Make sure that you have a full 60m rope, or you won't make it to the belay bolts after the crack runs out.
Added: 2006-11-27
Routes: North America: United States: New Mexico: Albuquerque Area: Sandia Mountains: Techweenie Buttress
Crackula
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Crackula
Perfect 90 degree left-facing dihedral that takes 1" - 2" gear at nice resting places. I started to link up both pitches, but came back down and built a belay anchor to eliminate the rope drag. For the second pitch, we veered off to the left (the piton was calling me!). Going for the hand-hold on the ledge, I grabbed a loose rock and almost fell.
I thought this was a pretty stiff 5.8, and while I can normally climb cracks without bloodying my hands, this one did extract a bit of skin from my knuckles.
I thought this was a pretty stiff 5.8, and while I can normally climb cracks without bloodying my hands, this one did extract a bit of skin from my knuckles.
Added: 2006-11-28
Routes: North America: United States: New Mexico: Albuquerque Area: Sandia Mountains: Pulpit
Cave route
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
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Cave Route
We had to wait for the weather (rain) to clear before hiking in to climb this route. There was a large, loose block just to the left of the first belay station.
I didn't find any acceptable way to protect the traverse near the top, but I did put a 00 TCU in a flaring crack for psychological pro. My buddy just rolled his eyes when he saw it!
We hiked in from the bottom to approach this climb - which was a mistake if you are interested in getting there quickly. If we ever do this one again, we'll approach by dropping down from the crest.
I didn't find any acceptable way to protect the traverse near the top, but I did put a 00 TCU in a flaring crack for psychological pro. My buddy just rolled his eyes when he saw it!
We hiked in from the bottom to approach this climb - which was a mistake if you are interested in getting there quickly. If we ever do this one again, we'll approach by dropping down from the crest.
Added: 2006-11-28
Routes: North America: United States: New Mexico: Albuquerque Area: Sandia Mountains: The Hole in the Wall
Miss Piggy
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
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Miss Piggy
The crux comes fairly low on this route, with a lie-back move that I protected with a red tri-cam. After that, the climbing eases off considerably. My partner led the second pitch.
Be sure to tour the cave - it goes back about 300' and maintains about 6'4" of headroom clearance. Great place to bivy if you get caught in a storm.
Be sure to tour the cave - it goes back about 300' and maintains about 6'4" of headroom clearance. Great place to bivy if you get caught in a storm.
Added: 2006-11-28
Routes: North America: United States: New Mexico: Albuquerque Area: Sandia Mountains: Estrellita
Estrellita
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Estrellita
Beautiful splitter crack on an 80 degree incline, then nice face moves on an arete. You will experience Nirvana on this climb!!
Added: 2006-11-28
Routes: North America: United States: Idaho: Twin Falls: City of Rocks National Reserve: Lower Breadloaf Rock West Side
Double Cracks AKA Carol's Crack
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Carol's Crack
Solid rock quality, very well protected crack in the 1/2" to 1" range.
Added: 2006-11-28
