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Hogge's Logbook (252 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Mossy Wall

Fancy Feast Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 1st send during Limestoner

On the hard end of 11b but less finish pump than The Stain.

I have probably the best opening mantel beta worked out and do exotic finishing beta: ONSIGHTING SPOILER ALERT...To gain the ledge: both hands palm the ledge's edge. RF smears since there's nothing else. LF high toe hook the ledge, far left. Quickly mantle weight over hands, throwing yourself horizontal with head facing south. Come out of that by pancaking the roof. Finishing beta: LH ball, RH slot just past the arete; here lots of people go RH to the flat sloper but I hate that. So LF high, hunker low and do a left-arcing dyno, LH hitting the jug ledge. The arc gives you more time to push with the legs and pull on that RH sidepull.

Added: 2014-04-07

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Monster Rock: Horror Movie Wall

Lord of the Pit Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sent at Last!

Never worked this more than one weekend at a time, with months/year between tries. Wasn't expecting to send it! Hard 11a or easy 11b but that's if you know all the holds. Head game route through the last crux.

Added: 2014-02-15

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Little Guide's Wall

Leap of Faith Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun.

So far thought it felt similar to prototype's steep section. I'll get back on it to see if it feels easier. Yesterday before sending it, I had notes that said 10d-11a and that may have set me thinking of a modest downgrade rather than consider 10b.

Added: 2014-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Little Guide's Wall

Call of the Wild Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars finish the route just to see the shrine.

Stick clip bolt 2, which is an unneeded permadraw that's likely to get used elsewhere. So I climbed to the easy part and just lowered of the perma, uninterested in the Class 4 looking finish. MY BAD: later I learned there is a shrine with interesting objects up there. Downgrading to 11b, what Vino probably originally said, from my run and another guy's opinion plus Karl & Emily's inputs.

Beta spoiler: use the obvious starting holds. Right hand is a sidepull. Move RH up on that sidepull crack to the top to make more room for the scrunch feet. Feet stem, LH cross to bad slopey crimp, then bump to slightly better crimp, then smack the ledge out left.

Added: 2014-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Undead Cats Wall

The Vo-schnoz-er Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Unique and fun

Time to downgrade to agree with the 11b opinions. Beta spoilers follow: kind of hard start. its a nice endurance route all the way through clipping both anchors. Easier than another endu route, The Stain. Also easier than MR's Insane Whisperings. Your grading should assume a bit of beta on the start: preset left foot on a microledge under the roof. Start hands on what you can reach right of the tufa and snatch the right block jug. Fun pumpy anchor clip has to be executed without hesitation. Grade is maybe 11a start plus pump anchor clip.

Added: 2013-11-20

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Mossy Wall

The Stain Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Hogge on 2013-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars french send..DOESN'T COUNT. Climbed "Stained Indirect"

Great sustained route; every hold or move is 5.10d-5.11a. adds up alot to an endurance grade. But in grading it, how many holds do we allow it to borrow from Katrina? Katrina was bolted first, so in fairness it owns the brown slot far left of its bolt line, followed by the right-pointing flake near its bolt line, followed by the hueco between both routes. Stained CAN be climbed without the right-pointing flake, but many people go that path. Stained "direct" should borrow the brown slot (near its boltline, likely used right-handed) and the hueco between the routes. I'm interested in grading Stained with and without the flake.

To assess your own grade for Stained, I think you have to climb all the way to the clifftop and waist-clip both anchors. If you clip from the lower jugs, you might pump out like I did.

Added: 2013-11-05

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Cheech & Chong Wall

Some Crimes Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars slightly sad-looking route offers alot of fun

Beta spoiler: I love the few routes where a crux require you to move an appendage up, then down before proceeding up. The power crux of this route is the opening deadpoint. Opinions range 5.10a-c so I'm tacking on a 10b for now. I'll check your Ascent grade opinions to finetune. If you feel the middle is the crux, you may have missed the trick beta. With right foot in the cave, you're high enough to get the thin right hand gaston crimp. Now bring right foot back down to an obvious ledge to free your left foot up and left to a knob. Right foot goes back to the cave. Next move (not sure which hand) goes high to a finger jug. All this takes me zero power, maybe 5.7-8. If short people can't reach that finger jug without spending more power than the opening move, the grade should be set height-dependent.

Added: 2013-11-02

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Undead Cats Wall

Electric Hellfire Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route, tricky start

Beta spoiler. Picking conventional feet I pulled it barely, felt harder than 11c. Then retried it with a high far left foot on a very positive point. Looks like some shoe rubber might be on it. Rock on to get the left shoulder high. left hand can use the obvious edge shaped like a little ledge or skip it and deadpoint to the left side over the block/bulge. Tricky the rest of the way. ANother opinion (E.G.) not logged here says 11c; I agree.

Added: 2013-10-22

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Undead Cats Wall

Hello Netherkitty! Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars repeat performance on one of the great hucks in town.

A big white jug around bolt 3 broke at some point, making the route more sustained and better. The original 11c wasn't fair; I had this so wired at the time. Repeats for me are about 50% on passing the crux, even pretty wired. V4 = 12a. I'd like to get shorter climbers who do huck on it to see if they want a height-dependent grade. But there are slightly higher footholds above what I used that could provide them enough reach without more difficulty. They may need a cheat stack to start on the two sidepulls, which is fine.

Added: 2013-08-12

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Mossy Wall

Deceptive Warmup Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally WARMED UP to this route. :-|

beta spoiler: middle of the route, reach high to the 2-finger vertical slot. Don't jam, don't press down on it. Press left, using it as a sidepull as you arc up and left. The route's great, full of holds to sort through.

Added: 2013-08-12

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