ImplicitD's Logbook (20 ascents)

This climb is a solid 5.7 and scary between 2nd and third bolt...big runout. It is best to place a medium nut and/or 0 or 00 tcu. A # 4 rock slotted nicely for me.

Fun climbing reminicent of Tuolumne Meadows.

Fun climbing reminicent of Tuolumne Meadows.

Fun climbing reminicent of Tuolumne Meadows.

The first pitch is great. The second is ok.

I dont have a stick clip since most places it isnt necessary. For this climb it is a must.

This is the best route at the crag.

Bring a small tcu (blue, yellow) or alien (green, yellow) for the runout between bolts two and three. A 3/4 inch camalot fits nicely between bolts three and four. The fourth bolt is pretty old but seems safe enough.

EDIT COMMENT
My wife and I just did the Memorial Route. For the most part I really liked the climb, but, in my opinion, its more like solid 5.9 than a 5.8. I give the climb two out of three stars.
If I do this climb again I will definitly bring a yellow or green alien for the roof. The move inst too hard, but I was at least 15 feet out at that point (so 30-40 footer was possible). I dont really think a new 5.8 leader would like this climb as they would be run out often at their limit. This climb, to me, is a 5.9 route for solid 5.10a/b leaders.
Also, the last two pitches are a bit redundant (for those of us who tire of slab climbing easily) in that they are pretty much the same move over and over-put foot on nothing and stand up, repeat. A nice option would be to climb the memorial route to the top of pitch six (the crux) and then take the regular route to the top or rap from here. Two ropes to rap! The regular route is ten feet to the left at the top of pitch six

I did this climb unbeknowest of the rating and name. To me it seemed like 5.9 or 5.10a. The climbing is really fun but a bit runout in the easy sections. I only climbed to the first set of anchors at around 150 feet. The last forty feet looks fun but I dont know the rating.