Routes : Reviews
LostinMaine's Logbook (19 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Otter Cliffs
A Dare by The Sea ***
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
pumpy!
This is a sweet finger crack to a small, juggy roof finish. I still haven't got the stones to lead it... no gear once you leave the crack and I'm so pumped at that point.
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Otter Cliffs
Childs Play
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by:
fun lead
Though it leaves a little to be desired for protection, this is such a fun lead. It has some of the best smearing I have have ever seen thanks to the ocean spray. Plus, nobody climbs this great route because it is out on the stack.
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Eagle Bluff: The Practice Wall
middle stuff
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
really fun lead
A variation to link up middle stuff to the eavsey stuff hand crack. Climb the middle stuff edge to the horizontal crack. Traverse left to hit the hand crack. Finish up eavsey stuff. Makes the climb around 5.9 with decent gear.
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Eagle Bluff: The Practice Wall
Crossover Direct
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
nice crack climb
This is a great crack climb in a predominately slab climbing area. Lead it without clipping the bolts. There is no need for bolts next to an easily-protected crack climb just because this is a sport climbing area. Second pitch is rarely done, but is way better than pitch 1.
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Eagle Bluff: The Practice Wall
Pried and Joy
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.5 |
| Safety Rating | G |
..
a great climb for a beginning leader
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Eagle Bluff: Main Face Left
Breakfast of Champions
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.1 |
| Safety Rating | G |
5.9
Wheaties qualifies as a 5.9. To say that the breakfast of champions pitch is 5.9 is a bit of a local sandbag. More like 10a if you don't know the route (especially at the second bolt off the ledge).
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Parks Pond Bluff: Main Face
Craig's Crack Direct
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | R |
no gear beneath the feet
Once you head off on the second pitch, enjoy the runout. It's long. The route didn't excite me much, but the roof finish really puts some air beneath your feet. I would climb it again just for that last 10 feet of climbing. Though I would give the route as a whole an "R" rating at 5.5 climbing, the crux roof finish gets a "G" rating at 5.7 climbing.
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Otter Cliffs
Guillotine
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
I love this climb
I have climbed this so many times, but I love it each time. A bit run out near the top, but well worth the lead. Easy gear anchors can be used for TR.
Added: 2007-05-30
Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: South Bubble
Gargoyle ***
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
gargoyles on bubble
'twas fun
Added: 2007-05-30
