Rmsyll2's Logbook (28 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (0)

Comments:  Show | Hide

1 of 32 of 33 of 3

My Husband Is Going to Kill Me Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

Yes, it is a "spinner".

Many have noticed that the left anchor hanger will spin on the bolt. The nut is as tight as one should be, the hanger is not flopping away from the rock, so it is within safety margins and not a reason to avoid this route. Don't avoid this route, even for the odd difficulty getting down to the anchors. It is not the back-sloped muscle pump of 'Howdy Dude', nor as sandy, and is more plain fun imo than any other 5.7 TR at Pilot.

Added: 2011-08-10

Mild-mannered Secretary popular Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

Not a "spinner".

Yes, the right anchor hanger is able to turn on the bolt, but only about 30 degrees. There is nothing to tighten, and nothing is at all dangerous about the anchoring there. Climb on.

Added: 2011-08-10

Cowboys & Heroes Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-12 (View Climbing Log)

Better this time.

Tim and Zander showed me how to do the upper left face by using the divider crack, and it went well. Three sections, each different, each interesting. Can make it harder by moving left on the upper face. Still recommended. Requires long runners (20' incl. wrap) from middle tree, do not let the rope hang in the divider crack.

Added: 2011-03-12

Kiss My Foot Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

Replay

The same Mike was on this route this week, and once again I did it too, today. They used the tree, I used the block behind. The traverse is much easier using the ledge for hands, not feet. Even the start can be done in various ways, along with the face. Oddly for Pilot, I found more and better footings than jug hand holds. There are some hollow flakes, so check before hauling up on anything.

Added: 2011-03-11

Gentle Ben Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

Easier right side variation.

The start is very similar imo to 'Howdy Dude', followed by vertical 5.6 jugs. If you are going to be able to finish, it is almost a one-move climb. And I almost did not make it over the arete, and had to body jam some to get up the overhang notch. When the rock is not so cold, will try to get better.

Added: 2011-03-04

Chicken Bone Right Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

Done that.

This was the most strenuous climb I've done, had to rest and shake out at every ledge. The "fold" does not look like that up close, but its top is indeed a bad trap that was difficult for me to escape. The ledge at the little pine and shuts is too welcome and welcoming, and was not that easy to climb past.

Added: 2011-03-02

Look Before You Leak Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

Still like it.

Today was not the first time, but it's been a few years. It is still a challenging puzzle for me. Satisfyingly strenuous without an overhang, and not a hint of chalk. Maybe all the loose rock and tourists at the top will keep it seldom used.
LL

Added: 2011-03-01

Dihedral Route Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

Interesting.

The back-sloped start is a bit rude for 5.7, very juggy soon, and then the curious crack. The middle part seemed too thin for feet to be where one would be placing pro. I traversed to the arete there, and on top-rope that is an optional variation. The crack becomes very narrow and sharp, too, so watch your fingers getting snagged if you fall. If it were easily anchored, this route would be quite popular, imo. The rings for 'Sailor' are an option for lowering off, btw, but with a lot of rope work.

LL

Added: 2011-03-01

Turkey Shoot popular Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

finally....

Today was the day, it turned out, for the Amphitheater to not be crowded and nice people I knew to have a rope on this one. It is as "technical" as it has looked: with two degrees less slope to the wall, it would be pushing 5.9 for difficulty of holds and footing. It even relies on a finger pocket right away. Fortunately, it becomes easier toward the top, with finally a jug or two where needed; and there is no place on it that feels ugly to do. My respect to those who do lead it.

Added: 2011-02-26

Mild-mannered Secretary popular Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll2 on 2011-02-06 (View Climbing Log)

Looks good, is good.

Had to ask for a belay, and the ladies were dubious, but she did a fine job. This is the loveliest 5.7 on the mountain, even wet as it was. The slope is comforting when the holds get thinner, and allows some various lines. A "must do" route, if you can do it.

Added: 2011-02-09

1 of 32 of 33 of 3