Pilot Mountain
Climbing Sections:
- Amphitheater (22)
- Big Arete (8)
- Boulder Station (0)
- Copper Top (4)
- Devil in the White House (5)
- Foreign Trade Zone (5)
- Little Amphitheater (11)
- Long Low Roof (3)
- Parking Lot (10)
- Pool Hall (6)
- Tall Gray Wall (0)
- The Beach (6)
- Three Bears (14)
- Upper Gully (6)
About Pilot Mountain:
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A small but very accessible cliff. The rock (quartzite) is not always stellar but has some very fun climbs. Be careful not to block the hiking trail which often lies at the base of the climbs.
The sport routes start in the Ampitheatre, which has some high-quality climbs ranging from 5.7-5.13a. Farther up the row is the North Carolina classic, Devil in the White House. Underneath the parking lot are higher cliffs which can be done trad or top-rope from a top belay. Pilot Mountain is a great place to take first-timers and introduce beginners to outdoor climbing because of the ease of climbs, and accessibility to all parts of the state. NOTE: Climbing on the Pilot Mountain knob is not permitted. |
| Nearest town or city: | Winston-Salem |
| Directions: | Take Pilot Mountain exit from US 52. Park at the far corner of the top parking lot and register at the board near the beginning of the trail head.
All climbs are easily accessible via the Three Bears gully if you don't decide to set up a toprope and rappel down. Do not use any other gullies to access the crag. |
| Latitude, Longitude: | 36.34017, -80.48048 |
| Access Issues: | Climbing permit required. |
| Camping: | Pay |
| When to Climb: | Autumn Spring Winter |
| Quantity of Climbs: | Month |
| Books: | Climber's Guide to Pilot Mountain State Park, Jeff Dillon (2007)(http://www.carolinaclimbers.org/Main-Content/New-Guide-for-Pilot-Mountain.html); The Climbers Guide to NC, Thomas Kelley (out-of-print) |
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