Rmsyll's Logbook (47 ascents)

I tried this carrying a light pack and no rope yet, got to the tiny cave and said "Nope." I wanted to top-rope the sloping face between the crack and the gully, but did not see an un-roped way to get safely to the prominent tree, or to get to the rings. This is not a place I would want to climb enough to bother with gear, or fall to what gear would swing to.
In my opinion, it should not be listed, as if it would keep the kids busy safely.

Yes, the chimney can be jammed and climbed to a block for top-rope. The small Pine is ok for backup. You can get up the face with finger holes, but getting to the middle ledge takes either a mantle move or an under-cling and felt 5.7ish for that. Short, even starting on the Trail which hugs this face. The top is a flat platform with a good view of the aretes too.

To the nice big ledge, the most uniformly abundant grips and foot placements at Pilot. Above that, an overhang and crack pull that is not 5.6 anymore, and will be a serious accomplishment if this is your level.
Bill says 'Boogy Board' is the 5.10 variation straight up to the right crack, 'Tsunami' is probably 5.11 over the ripples only.

If you rope between the pillars and start behind the large pine tree at the base, this can be 5.5 to 5.7 up to the ledges to the rim or to the horizontal crack, nice for kids with climber parents doing the harder upper part for instance. It is off and above the main trail, private until a climber wants to use the gully which goes only to the top-rope path.

Not on first try, and not on first line. Lost a pinch grip and hit the ground on first try. Slipped a foot and was barely hanging on to back down for another try. My first case of leg shake, too bad to continue, and the scariest almost-dyno too. I got into this weird crouch with both knees going left and my right arm right and low, and had to go for whatever was up there with a fast left stretch or fall anyway. Whew! It was a handfull grip, and the rest was such a relief after that sweat, that I remember nothing about it. Doing it again, will wait a while.

Why is there so much CHALK on the vertical crack part? If even I did it, right to the roof, there is no need for anything but climbing. All you're doing with all that CHALK is wasting your time and spoiling the rock with all that slick CHALK. Climbing is about putting each hand up to the next hold, not down around your back into your CHALK bag.

There are locations that allow NO chalk. How'bout at least a little less?

I had to try more than once, with a barely avoided fall, and had to use a left heel-hook for my first time to get it. Nice ledge up there, fortunately. Being scared makes any climb feel like an accomplishment. Second time was easier, but it still scares me.