Routes : Reviews

bandycoot's Logbook (198 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (1)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Fire Wall

Pyromania Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.13b
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

:)

One of the most amazing and beautiful routes I've seen on Earth! F*** Yeah!

Gear:

0.75 Camalot 2' sling
2nd smallest offset alien 1' sling
#3 Metolius TCU 1' sling
0 TCU 1' sling
0.75 Camalot and 3rd smallest offset alien 2' sling
3 x #1 Metolius TCU
0.5 Camalot and 2' sling

Added: 2009-08-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Lone Pine Peak Area: Lone Pine Peak

Michael Strassman Memorial Route Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10d
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

Mind blowing line!

One of the best lines I've climbed in the High Sierra! 2nd ascent! Woot!

Added: 2010-01-22

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Split Rocks: Rubicon Formation

Seizure Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

Thin and insecure!

I still can't believe I managed to link such an insane series of insecure marginal moves. I had to TR the route a couple of times to experiment and find the sometimes bizarre holds and body positions required for this route but it unexpectedly all came together.

Added: 2009-06-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Real Hidden Valley: Sentinel Rock

The Chameleon Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12b
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

One of the best!

Wicked sustained, technical, and utterly amazing climbing. This thing requires creativity, finger strength, and endurance, and it one of the most sustained routes I've done for the grade in J-Tree. Bring about 5 draws, and 0 metolius to 2 camalot and a lot of mental stamina.

Added: 2009-06-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: West Face Bulge

The Crucifix Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

I hate the "Ascent Header" when I have nothing to put.

This pitch spit me off last time and I had to pull on bolts to get to the top. I've improved since then, and managed to eek out a redpoint on this thing. There are three cruxes, the two bolt dihedral being the most desperate! The pitch is well bolted, and very safe, but gear helps in a couple of places.

Added: 2009-05-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: West Face

The Edge (5.11a R) Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11b
Safety Rating	R
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

Spectacular climb. Perfection.

Best visual line at Tahquitz. It lived up to its reputation, but in an unexpected way. It was 5.11b the way I did it leaving the belay after the famous pitch. I hope that no one ever provides beta for this route. It deserves true onsight climbing.

Added: 2009-05-22

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Barker Dam: Lakeside Rock

Father Figure Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

Very un-JTreeish route....

Worked on this route for one weekend, two attempts each day ground up. Beautiful route. Much easier than I thought it would be. I'd almost call this 12c, but I haven't been climbing hard for a while so I'm not calibrated.

Added: 2009-04-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Real Hidden Valley: Houser Buttress

Hidden Arch Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

Difficult lead for the grade

While there is a perfect keyhole small nut placement protecting the crux, blowing it before your next piece might land you on a boulder below. It's heady due to it's insecure nature, but if you can figure it out it's not terrible. Beta: Use the face holds above the roof on the right.

Added: 2009-04-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: Corte Madera: Main Wall Right

captain cook Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

Best natural feature at Corte Madera

This route is awesome. We tried to replace the first bolt, but it took hour to remove and unfortunately our access to the drill we were planning on using ended by then. We'll go back and put a new bolt in there. The 2nd bolt is unneccesary with current large cams. Bring a rack that is heavy on the wide. I enjoy offwidth, but it was so much easier to lieback this pitch for 110' that I just did that...

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Roadside Rocks: Dihedral Rock

The Sowsickle Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2009-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

Good climb

A slightly heady lead on beautiful features, this thing requires technique and reach. I'm 6' tall and could barely reach through the crux. The position is awkward enough that it would be very difficult to dyno. I loved this route. Got it 2nd try after finding all the holds. I managed to get in a purple and yellow Metolius TCU in the upper dihedral. I think a 0.75 camalot could protect the moves to the first bolt but isn't worth the time to put in. Since by then you're almost at the bolt. The piton looks sketchy, and I slung it close to the rock. Hard move at the piton to get to the next bolt too!

Added: 2009-03-23