biff's Logbook (39 ascents)

I started straight up the cave at the bottom. The standard line starts the left of the cave.. I am not sure what the grade of the cave is, but it is alot of fun, and fairly hard. The two large holes half way up the route are key ... stay to the left .. the project to the right is harder.

we made it up 2 pitches then we saw the 30 foot runouts between bolts on the 3rd pitch. We decided life was precious and retreated (my first retreat ever)

Nice route, there is a hidden jug a decent reach above the 2 pockes just above the second hold, very hard to see until you are past it.

2 heel hooks make this route fun.

The first pitch is long. About halfway up there is a bolted rappel station just below an overhangfor people who who just want to climb the first 20m. Clip one of the bolts, with a long sling. then keep on climbing over the overhang, slightly to the right of the anchor. The next bolt is just at the end of the overhang, and can be hard to see from the anchors. The End of the First Pitch is easily determined by the extremely large ledge under the very large overhang with a 2 bolt belay station. The 2 Fixed Pitons are also a good indicatoin that you are at the top of the first pitch. Clip the upper of the 2 fixed pitons as the first protection before climbing the second pitch. Pitches 2,3 and 4,5 can be doubled to make a 3 pitch climb if you have a 60 meter rope. (50m will be too short to double pitch 4,5 but might be enough to double 2,3) For Pitch 1, take alot of quicdraws, (15 or more) I wouln't want less than 19 just to be safe. Having Trad a littke Gear to 2" is handy to avoid long runouts.
To Decend, Walk off the trail to the right (north) at the top of the climb

The guidbook is sort of old. There is a 2 bolt belay halfway up (20m) the first pitch which is confusing. Clip one of the bolts with a long draw and continue on up the overhang, slightly to the right of the bolts. The next bolt is hard to see from the anchors, but it is right at the end of the overhang. Pitch 1 is very long, I would take at least 15 quickdraws, and probably some nuts/cams to 2" to avoid long runout on shapr limestone. The end of the first pitch is easily destinguished by the large ledge under te very big overhang. There are 2 fixed pitons easily visible near the 2 anchor bolts. Clip the top of these pitons when starting on the next pitch. Pitches 2,3 and 4,5 can be doubled if you have a 60m rope. pitches 2-3 might go with 50m rope, but 4,5 requires about 57m of rope.

Tried leading .. didn't clip the bold at the crux .. took a decent fall, slamed my hip into the wall. Rendog lead it, then I TR'ed it without any problems. Loads of fun.

not bad .. we climbed the bottom of geriatric and the top of true grit.

nice route, but it was very windy at the top which made for a quick stop at the top.