cashmang's Logbook (18 ascents)

One of the most aesthetic single pitch sport climbs of the grade that i've ever climbed anywhere! Beautiful rock quality and holds, beautiful view, and the 316 stainless bolts are in great shape as of Dec 2015. Just dont clip into the rusted quicklinks. The top anchors are bomber glue-ins, one of which has a rap ring. This route is a must do at Fronton. Don't forget to enjoy the view of the beach from the top.

This was the second route we climbed at Fronton. Short but very fun, with some really fun movement including a free standing pillar handhold that is like grabbing a jail bar, and a neat undercling move at the crux. Fun little line worth climbing for sure! Stainless bolts were in good condition as of Dec 2015.

This seems to be a popular project climb for folks who are seeking to push thru to 5.12, since there is a good gear rescue route next door (Steep Street). I would consider this a stiff .12a, or .12b.

The route consists of a bouldery start off the ground, then a traverse on mostly really good, positive holds with good ledges for feet, then a few more good holds up to the horizontal crack/jug just below the crux.

The crux involves a really crappy sidepull for the right hand, then a reach for an equally crappy sidepull in the same direction for the left hand, providing a somewhat tenuous stance for the 5th clip. There are really good feet here if you look in the right places. Up from the 5th clip, the gradient softens some with a few mediocre crimpy holds and a recommended left heel hook to the finish.

Sustained haul mostly on the face of a pillar, partially utilizing the aretes on either side of the pillar. Easy climbing to the first bulge crux about half way up, which requires a long reach, then climbing gets slightly harder to the top. The last move to the [lower] chains involves a fist crack to the left of the chains for your left hand and foot. This climb is graded 5.11a in the book, but there are definitely no 5.11 moves on the route. Overall feels soft for the grade, the only thing that makes it difficult is the length and sustained climbing. A climber seeking to push for the grade must climb economically, rest when possible in the upper 3/4, and move through the upper sequences efficiently. Great climb overall, I will hit it again next time.

Strung up a TR on this yesterday and gave it a whirl. Feels soft for the supposed 5.12a designation in the guidebook, I got up it without too much issue and I consider myself a 5.11 climber. I don't know if it is soft or if I am just getting better at climbing ;) Will lead it next time for sure. The crux is basically from the ground to the second bolt which involves negotiating a 2 foot wide horizontal joint in the rock, but really it wasn't that hard to figure out. The second half is like 5.9 to the top. Agree that it deserves more than one star.

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I was actually intimidated by this route the first few times I tried it, because my arms were already pre-smoked and I didn't quite have the gas to send the opening sequence. But then I went back to the route today and decoded it after a couple more tries. The lower overhanging section to the 2nd bolt is basically a sequential boulder problem with 2 specific moves that took some figuring out, but once you get the sequence nailed the route becomes pretty cake for an 11a. Figure out how to get to the ultra positive horny hold slightly above and left of the 2nd bolt and the rest of the route is 5.9/.10a to the top. The second clip is pretty scary because the hold isn't wonderful and you'll definitely deck out if you slip. The holds are currently pretty greasy due to the route's popularity and could use a brushing. At first I thought crimposaurus was a full sprayer for saying that this route makes a good warmup and cool down, but now that I have figured it out I totally see what he/she means. Will be a good warmup and gear rescue route for my next 12 project, Under Arrest -- the route next door.

Fun route, worth climbing

Tricky sequence at the crux. Basically, this is more like a high ball boulder problem upon which you happen to have a rope tied onto you than it is an actual sport route. If it weren't for the trees you could climb this solo with pads and spotters.

Like the previous poster, it took me a while to get past the crux on this one. The hardest .11a I have climbed at 38, and I wouldn't hesitate to bump it a letter grade. I took numerous whippers on the bolt just below the crux (the one that has the threaded gate bail out loop, which I must confess I had to lower off of after a couple failed attempts), mainly because I was too scared to go for the next clip, which requires a holding onto a small, scary crimper with your left hand. You feel like you are up there way off the deck because of the steeply sloping ground surface, which adds to the airy exposed feel of the route. The route overall is sustained hard 5.10 climbing on the lower half and then pretty sustained 5.11 in the upper half. It'll pump you out for sure if you dilly dally for too long on the wrong holds. It is all slightly overhung past the lower roof move, so move quick!