cw1242's Logbook (7 ascents)

Projecting this at the moment. Down to 1 hang. A hold popped (not the one you're thinking of) near the bottom of the route.

Crux area has a right hand hold that is a bit delicate, it flexes a bit.

I'm inclined to think this is a 12c however I don't have any reference because I've never done one outdoors.

Great route with a nice variety of climbing for such a short route. Well bolted.

Nice work on this one John. Got on it today and it was so fun I had to do it twice. This route flowed really well for me. The crux seemed to be at the bottom in figuring out the beta for moving up to the choss band. Speaking of choss - we had a few small patches of rock break off but for the most part a huge amount of work was done on this to clean it thoroughly. For the anchors I ended up clipping both with my right hand after securing a solid knee bar and finding a decent left hand. The position of being totally sideways while clipping meant for an exciting yet secure clip.

Don't let the appearance of choss lead you to skip this one. Hop on it and fight the good fight. It's officially taken Rattled's place as my favorite route on this wall.

Worked this new start into "Call" with John H and my buddy Gavin Echterling. Adds about 8 moves onto Call and ups the fun factor.

This route is...weird. There are movements on this route that you'll be hard-pressed to find on any other route in Reimers - especially on limestone. I actually did a legitimate hand jam or two. The layback start is exceptionally awkward and different per my own constant quote during the send of "This is weird...why am I doing this? Screw this on trad gear!"

I think it is probably 10c due to the effort of clipping the third bolt. Don't blow that one.

This route seems to have shed quite a bit of holds since its inception. There are many many orange scars along the route. I just wanted to note that this past weekend (11/2/13) the lower left hand juggy crimp that many might have used as a starter hold broke off during my attempt. What is left is a bad crimp with a thumb knob that still allows the route to go but is now made worse for feet once you're above it. The crux now feels extended to around the 2nd bolt instead of being centralized around the 3rd. Crank hard.

From the base this route appears to have maybe an 75 degree incline but that is deceptive due to the belay point being at a negative angle. It's a true 90 degree face climb on crystals and loose razor crimps.

We stick clipped the second bolt to allow for a rope jug over the initial overhang which does not appear to be climbable. This also prevents a ground fall + 80' tumble into cactus patches.

The route starts left and meanders right. Bolts are spaced roughly 10 feet apart with small holds at each clip point. We had a few sharp crimps flake off on us during our climb.

Belayer will need a helmet.

Top out is heady - anchors are 20 feet back from the edge - solid place to clip from though. Avoid the fall past the anchors.

After climbing the face of this to the anchors it seems to be a much better idea to rap in this route and just top rope it.