Enchanted Rock State Park
Climbing Sections:
- Backside-Cheap Wine Wall (10)
- Backside-Devil's Slide (4)
- Backside-News Wall (9)
- Backside-The Shield (16)
- buzzards roost keyhole (1)
- Buzzards Roost-E. face (6)
- Buzzards Roost-N. face (1)
- Buzzards Roost-SE face (8)
- Buzzards Roost-west face (4)
- Cave-In Area (5)
- Center Wall (8)
- Dairy Farm Boulders (34)
- Echo Canyon-Lunch Rocks (15)
- Echo Canyon-Motorboat Rock (11)
- Echo Canyon-Orange Peel (10)
- Echo Canyon-Throne Rock (5)
- Echo Canyon-Triple Cracks (5)
- Freshman Mtn.-Amazon boulder (3)
- Freshman Mtn.-Mirage Wall (4)
- Freshman Mtn.-Rock Clark Wall (6)
- Freshman Mtn.-South American b (3)
- Freshman Mtn.-Yellow Pages (10)
- Frontside boulders (6)
- I cant remember (1)
- Little Dome-Backside Boulders (12)
- Little Dome-Kingdom of Zilch (19)
- Little Dome-Lizard Head Boulde (7)
- Little Dome-Loop Boulders (3)
- Little Dome-Shuttle Rocks (3)
- Lunar Rocks (1)
- Main Dome (4)
- Smorgasbord (2)
- The Carnivores (16)
- The Frog (5)
- The Kingdom of Zilch (4)
- Turkey Peak (7)
About Enchanted Rock State Park:
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Enchanted Rock has the distinction of being the only extensive and good granite in the state of Texas. You'll find slabs, steep slabby face climbing on micronubbins and good 30' cracks and bouldering.
If you are a strong boulderer, proficient in granite cracks then the best way to tour E-rock is without a rope. Most of the best routes are moderate highballs in the V1-V3 range, with many harder problems available. Enchanted rock is the second largest monolithic dome (blathosphere) in the country, second only to Stone Mtn. in Georgia. There are actually 2 domes with a few other outcrops surrounding them. The park has a very large variety of high quality granite routes. The backside of main-dome has the largest concentration of long bolted routes, consisting of a tremendous number of one pitch slab climbs of all levels, some of which are quite runout. The Motorboat Rock/Lunch Rocks area is nearby at the end of Echo Canyon. Avoid this area like the plague; it is where all guiding companies and general beginner climbers converge and tends to be quite busy (although it has a number of good routes). Turkey Peak has a small collection of routes that are slightly different from most others in the park due to the incut nature of the granite. You will likely encounter tourists here and you are guaranteed to BAKE in any type of hot weather. There are many, many other small climbing areas around the park. Most of them are within about a 20 minute approach; I think the longest I've ever hiked to get to a route is about 45 min. Be very careful of cactus and keep an eye out for snakes. Also, take plenty of water. Camping at the park often needs to be reserved in advance, and is known for being a haven for noisy Boy Scouts. Additional nearby camping is available at the Oxford Ranch (http://www.oxfordranchcamp.com/), which is supposedly very climber friendly. A seperate campgrounds for climbers in in the works. |
| Nearest town or city: | Fredricksburg |
| Directions: | |
| Latitude, Longitude: | 30.49589, -98.81996 |
| Access Issues: | |
| Camping: | Pay |
| When to Climb: | |
| Quantity of Climbs: | Year |
| Books: | Dome Driver's Manual by James Crump The Little Dome Driver by Scott Steiner www.erockonline.com - Sean O'Grady |
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