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drfelatio's Logbook (61 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Roadside Crag

Roadside Attraction popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The Standard

This sets the standard for all other 5.7 cracks in the Red. Immensely fun, killer jams, bomber protection, and a little heady in the wide section up top to keep you honest.

The top-out has a nice view, but I didn't think the hassle was worth it. You can't rap directly to the ground from there without a 70m rope. The 20' rap back down to the anchor bolts is just more pain than it's worth. Either bring your 70m and top out or bring your 60m and stop at the bolts.

Added: 2007-08-02

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Fortress Wall

Snake Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lots of variety

Everything from fingers up to a squeeze chimney. The variety adds interest to the climb making this a very enjoyable 5.8.

Added: 2007-06-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Fortress Wall

Calypso II Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tricky start

no comment

Added: 2007-06-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Fortress Wall

Bombs Bursting Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun climb

no comment

Added: 2007-05-07

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Wall of Denial

Strick 9 *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

Little scary as a beginning leader. Good stems, protects well.

Added: 2007-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Wall of Denial

Bongo Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun easy

Don't forget to play the bongo!!

Added: 2007-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Wall of Denial

Toxic Avenger *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Extremely fun climb!

It is a bit runout, but with an attentive belayer it's fine. I fell just before the second clip and did not deck.

This is RRG slab climbing at its best. Until I climbed Arachnid at Tower Rock, this was my favorite climb in the Red. A definite must do!!

Added: 2007-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Wall of Denial

Buckeye Testpiece 5.6 R Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Develop your lead head!

Kinda lame? Grow a pair! The climbing is easy but like the description says, protection is scant. I ran out the last 20 or so feet (its a 50-60ft route). The prospect of a groundfall from that height makes even a 5.6 scary. Just focus on the climb, remind yourself you're on a 5-frickin-6 and that you're not going to fall and you'll be fine.

Make sure you set a bomber directional at the bottom because if you fall your belayer had better be running away from the wall to take up slack. You'll need the directional to keep from zippering.

Added: 2007-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Fortress Wall

Bedtime For Bonzo (5.6) popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome route!

First pitch is hella easy (5.4ish) and the second is fun and exposed. Bring a couple wider pieces (3s - 4s) for the second pitch and some warm clothes if it's cold. The wind screams through that gully.

Added: 2007-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Fortress Wall

Serpent Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route with tricky crux

Route description is a little off. This route is between Snake and Calypso III (not II).

On TR it's perfectly safe (duh) but on lead? Pfft!



Added: 2007-05-02

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