Routes : Reviews
earlethesquirrel's Logbook (82 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (2)
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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: Optimator wall
Hayduke Lives!
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Semi-pinkpoint ascent
I led this climb with the first four pieces of protection still in down low (two TCU's right next to each other in the middle crack, one purple TCU in the right crack, and one hand-size piece under the roof). I fell while going for the cupped hand jam in the low roof. After gaining the hand crack above, it was smooth sailing to the top.
Added: 2009-05-05
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Western Slope: Unaweep Bouldering: Rock Garden
broken boulder - V3
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | V3 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Nice sheltered spot.
Decided to get out of the sun and do this one. Took a few tries to get the middle figured out. Threw for the horn on top with my right and it was done. Did a few laps.
Added: 2009-04-13
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Western Slope: Unaweep Bouldering: Gash Rock
V2
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | V2 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Found it!
After doing other problems down the dirt road, I decided to end @ this area with this problem. Came up from the parking lot and kind of intuited my way to the Gash. Good holds down low to a somewhat nervy top-out. Good shady location.
Added: 2009-04-13
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: The Gallery - Menses Prow
Pueblo Gringos
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Polished climb with good positioning.
Nice well-used climb on a pinnacle. I barn-doored off at the bottom trying to get a solid stance to clip the first bolt from. The rest is good times!
Added: 2009-03-29
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: The Gallery - Menses Prow
Turbo Charged Intercooled Meat Machine
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Watch out for wast nest at 20'
Fun climb. Wierd move to the left over the mid-height bulge. Watch the wasps at the flake down low.
Added: 2009-03-29
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: The Gallery - Menses Prow
Love Pump
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Don't forget to have your belayer clip into the low bolt on top of the shelf.
Good climb. Hard start followed by fun moves to the top. Nice belay perch above the short trees.
Added: 2009-03-29
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: Sand Gulch - Contest Wall
Dune
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Felt like a long jug-pulling boulder problem.
Easy fun climb with good holds where ya need em. Top section before moving left to anchors looks like it could contain some loose rock. Run-out scramble to start is a little heady. It's low-angle with plenty to hold onto.
Added: 2009-03-29
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: Sand Gulch - Contest Wall
Enterprise
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Long aerobic-feeling route
Had a running conversation with my partner on the subject of yurts until about the third bolt. Crux-like moves through the section. The rest of the climb was clear sailing till near the anchors when I threw to a ledge to get a better stance to clip the anchors. I was feeling the pump at that point. Good longer route at Shelf!
Added: 2009-03-29
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: Sand Gulch - Contest Wall
Armistice
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun multi-stage route.
Beginning is relatively straightforward. Climbing up toward the roof is thought provoking. Almost had a knee-bar under the roof. Not quite tall enough. Didn't tackle the roof directly. Climbed toward the plant covered ledge to the right. Was psyched to see that he climb was not over. Fun low-angle moves to chains.
Added: 2009-03-29
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Southern Colorado: Shelf Road: Sand Gulch - Contest Wall
Spiney Dan
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
What a fun climb!
Second bolt higher than necessary. Third hanger spins. Nice multi-chain anchor w/ large screw-links.
Added: 2009-03-29
