flatstateclimber's Logbook (14 ascents)

My first onsight! Kick ass. Yeah, I know it's a 5.9. There will be more to come!

Really enjoyed this route. Everyone I climbed with this day said the crux was low, a crossover move just past the first bolt. No problem there. I had trouble at the top as the pump kicked in. Took a big whipper from the 5th bolt as I was trying to clip. Took another two tries to get past it and send. I'll get the redpoint in a few weeks when I'm passing back through Chatt.

Sweet climb. Protection was solid, no sketch factor when trying to clip, no whip when peeling off the arete to figure out the crux. Nearly flashed it, but had to find out what worked for me on the crux. I really enjoyed this route. I hope for a redpoint in a few weeks!

In November '05, this problem, for all it's seemingly simple beta, confounded me and beat me. In fact, I rarely touch pockets these days for the effect this problem had on the tendons in my right wrist. That said, I was feeling good on this particular Saturday. Not climbing spectacularly, but some friends were working on Spook Eye. I walked up, put my shoes on, and got my send on immediately. Even the crux (rolling out of the 2nd move into the third), the exact move that injured me 5 months ago, went smoothly, despite my apprehensions. First try of the day. Man I was stoked!

Sweet problem. SDS is rather tricky, the bottom feet on the boulder are sloughing off (a la the top of Sandbox), which causes a barndoor into a tree. But I digress, first try for the top, didn't go hard enough with a deadpoint. Second try, made it a dyno, smacked the finish knob pretty hard, didn't stick. Third try to the top, somewhere in between the first and second tries and it stuck, easy top out. Big fun!

Very cool problem. I got the beta for the problem pretty quickly; however, being a flat-stater, had trouble on the mantle. Hell, I had a hard time standing still on a small rock next to the problem. Crux for me was the mantle. It is likely the reason for the V3 grade.

I guess this was my first "project" problem that I've had to work on. Back in May '05, I came to LRC for the first time to climb on zero sleep and had quite possibly one of the sorriest climbing days I've ever had. I worked Ribcage for 2 solid hours with my friends nearby (who all sent it in less than 4 tries). I showed up at the LRC Triple Crown comp with this problem in my crosshairs, and it didn't even put up a fight. Long throw to the lip, match, throw the heel, adjust hands and roll on up. Easy as pie, first try of the day. I guess sleep is pretty important, huh?

P.S. This problem is not a V1, perhaps someone's trying to adjust the so-called softness of the ratings at LRC?

This problem is awesome! I would like to voice my displeasure at the supposed "downgrading" of this problem by whoever made the guide for the HP40 comp. There is NO way that this problem has gotten easier in 2 years (when I"m told it was graded a V5). I'm content saying that it is the first V4 I've sent outdoors!

Awesome route with awesome scenery after you finish.

Judges at the comp sat back and watched with glee as competitors (including myself) scratched their heads trying to figure out the top out after the relatively easy bulk of the route.