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fubar's Logbook (78 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer

Scirocco Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Small holds, big moves

I think this climb is a bit easier if you're over 6 feet tall...

Added: 2008-07-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer

Slight of Hand Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The name is wrong

It's actually "Sleight of Hand," a pun on the fact that if your hands are sleight, ie, smaller, this will be easier for you.

My hands are not sleight. They're fat.

This is best done as one long pitch. The bolt is comically bad.

Added: 2008-07-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Witch

The Pit and the Pendulum Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Something different...

We did this in 3 pitches, climbing Phosphorescent Flow (5.10 R) instead of the big corner, then a short easy pitch to the base of the corner, then a pendulum and out to the top. The pendulum is kind of freaky, but my suggestion is to sling the big horn to protect the crux move, then dislodge the sling once you're above it, so as to prevent nasty drag.

Added: 2008-07-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Witch

Spook Book Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sustained Fun

First pitch is the scariest, in my opinion. There were some fixed nuts in the thin parts.

Added: 2008-07-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Witch

Ankles Away Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spelled wrong

It's "Ankles Aweigh," like the song "Anchors Aweigh."

Anyway...great climb (gasping for breath). Typical Needles corner: stem, palm, fiddle with gear, repeat.

Added: 2008-07-28

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Eldorado Canyon: The Bastille

Wide Country Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic!

Well protected at the crux. Make sure to bring a .75 and #2 for the top traverse. Gear is good but well-spaced.

Added: 2008-06-20

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Eldorado Canyon: The Bastille

Interceptor Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice Crimps

Hang on!

Added: 2008-06-20

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Northern Colorado: Lumpy Ridge: The Book

Fat City Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Lightning City

Finished this in a light slushy rain. Typical CO summer day, I guess. Easy to link pitches 1-2 or 2-3, though watch for drag.

Added: 2008-06-20

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Northern Colorado: Lumpy Ridge: The Book

J Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars THE route to do at Lumpy

Awesome.

Added: 2008-06-20

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Calico Basin: Gnat Man Crag

Gnat Man on Ranch Hands (*) Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars best route at this crag

Very fun, more continuous than the surrounding routes. Take a #1 camalot for the anchor.

Added: 2008-04-02

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