Routes : Reviews
fubar's Logbook (78 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (25)
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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer
Scirocco Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-26
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Small holds, big moves
I think this climb is a bit easier if you're over 6 feet tall...
Added: 2008-07-28
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer
Slight of Hand Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-26
(View Climbing Log)
The name is wrong
It's actually "Sleight of Hand," a pun on the fact that if your hands are sleight, ie, smaller, this will be easier for you.
My hands are not sleight. They're fat.
This is best done as one long pitch. The bolt is comically bad.
My hands are not sleight. They're fat.
This is best done as one long pitch. The bolt is comically bad.
Added: 2008-07-28
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Witch
The Pit and the Pendulum Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-06
(View Climbing Log)
Something different...
We did this in 3 pitches, climbing Phosphorescent Flow (5.10 R) instead of the big corner, then a short easy pitch to the base of the corner, then a pendulum and out to the top. The pendulum is kind of freaky, but my suggestion is to sling the big horn to protect the crux move, then dislodge the sling once you're above it, so as to prevent nasty drag.
Added: 2008-07-28
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Witch
Spook Book Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-05
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Sustained Fun
First pitch is the scariest, in my opinion. There were some fixed nuts in the thin parts.
Added: 2008-07-28
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: Witch
Ankles Away Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-04
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Spelled wrong
It's "Ankles Aweigh," like the song "Anchors Aweigh."
Anyway...great climb (gasping for breath). Typical Needles corner: stem, palm, fiddle with gear, repeat.
Anyway...great climb (gasping for breath). Typical Needles corner: stem, palm, fiddle with gear, repeat.
Added: 2008-07-28
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Eldorado Canyon: The Bastille
Wide Country Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-19
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Classic!
Well protected at the crux. Make sure to bring a .75 and #2 for the top traverse. Gear is good but well-spaced.
Added: 2008-06-20
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Eldorado Canyon: The Bastille
Interceptor Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-19
(View Climbing Log)
Nice Crimps
Hang on!
Added: 2008-06-20
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Northern Colorado: Lumpy Ridge: The Book
Fat City Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-18
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Lightning City
Finished this in a light slushy rain. Typical CO summer day, I guess. Easy to link pitches 1-2 or 2-3, though watch for drag.
Added: 2008-06-20
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Northern Colorado: Lumpy Ridge: The Book
J Crack Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-06-18
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THE route to do at Lumpy
Awesome.
Added: 2008-06-20
Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Calico Basin: Gnat Man Crag
Gnat Man on Ranch Hands (*) Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-04-02
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best route at this crag
Very fun, more continuous than the surrounding routes. Take a #1 camalot for the anchor.
Added: 2008-04-02