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fubar's Logbook (78 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Rock Hudson

Doing That Scrapyard Thing Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Worth a burn

best part of the climb is the killer hand to finger crack at the top. To get off, do a second pitch around to the rap anchors for the 10c face climb on Rock Hudson. Annoying, but typical Josh.

Added: 2009-12-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Hall of Horrors

Cactus Flower Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars No Gear Necessary

Just five draws; three for the climb and two for the top. There is a pod up high that would take a #1 camalot, but if you haven't fallen by then, you're not going to, are you?

Added: 2009-12-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Rock Hudson

Hot Rocks Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Jam or Lieback?

It's up to you...do you trust that friction? Well, do you?

Apparently the first free ascent of this line was John Long and John Bachar on toprope. The second was Bachar, solo.

Added: 2009-12-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Roadside Rocks: Dihedral Rock

Coarse and Buggy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Little bit of everything

My new favorite climb in JT. Takes bomber gear the whole way; only challenge is not running out!

Added: 2009-12-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: South Face Area

The Bookend Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crimpy + Sunny

Wait for a cold or cool day to do this one. Slightly contrived, but well worth a shot; unlike most Tahquitz face climbs, it's steep and powerful.

Added: 2009-12-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Warlock

Sea of Tranquility Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Forgot my drill...

Anchors/bolts on pitches 3-5 are less than pristine. There was also a lot of detritus on and near the route, including a rope bag left at the top of the 4th pitch. Anyone?

Added: 2009-09-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: Northwest Recess

Edgehogs Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Line, Bob!

Fantastic climbing all the way. A tricky sequence off the first belay was the crux for me, but it's fairly continuous. Check out the shoddy and sparsely placed bolts on Magical Mystery Tour to your left, or better yet, give it a go on TR when you rap.

Added: 2009-12-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer

Ice Pirates Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Must-do

This route is awesome. I think the bolt is, technically, to protect a traverse back to Thin Ice (which explains why it's so far to the right). I put a long runner on it and was glad to have the peace of mind, but the gear at that point is really good, too. You will take a long but safe fall if you come off at the top. There are two methods at the anchors: step high (balancey and graceful) or go low (thuggish and ugly).

Added: 2009-12-22

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Queen Mountain: Upper Walt

Crack Queen Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2009-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Worst rock in QM

Though the look of this crack is impressive, I don't know that any amount of traffic will clean it up. There are a couple of rotten pods, some dirt down low, and intermittent guano. The scenery, however, is great. Save a #3 for the top.

Added: 2009-01-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Sorcerer

Atlantis popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2008-07-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Route(s)

One of the best routes at the Needles. One of the best anywhere.

Added: 2008-07-28

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