iching's Logbook (21 ascents)

very fun sustained route with lots of variety

Added chains on the top anchors to P3 and added belay bolts on the sandy ledge ontop P1.

Willie lead. We added rappel chains on top and another set at 96 feet.

Fun route, took lots of falls. Added two new anchors to the route with permission from first ascent.

Fun well protected .7. Willie lead. We replaced the top hangers with chains. Fun rappel off, all air.

There are hangers on all bolts except the end belay bolts placed next tot he radio shed on the summit.
A short section of aid was placed through a steep chossy wall which takes you out of the chimney and onto the main wall. The aid section was made on 1/4 inch bolts that were placed quickly. In hind sight, aiding out off the chimney sooner would have kept us on solid rock, but would have required a longer section of aid. Moveing quickly through the first pitch is advisable to reduce your exposure to rock fall. Once ontop of the fist pitch the exposure to rock fall was greatly reduced. Bolts on the remainder of the route were stainless steel 3-3/4 in Fixe double expansion. Once on the main wall the rock quality is good with columnar structure. The climb was made in FOUR (not three) ~150-foot pitches. There is a good view of Deer Leap from the Toketee School House. An increadible climb. If it wasn't for the exposure to rock fall on the first pitch I would give this route a *****.

This was a fun route. It is one of the more exposed and open face routes on McKinley Rock's open southface. It starts out stemming a wide watercrack feature which I thought was easier than it looks (.9 to .10a). From the top of the watercrack I followed the route left following the upper egde of the halfmoon. The climbing here was straight foreword but the bolts are placed just far enough to keep me on the edge (.8). From the belay the climb traverses to the right and then climbs into and through a wide gully like feather that takes you to the top (.10a to .10b). The traverse across seemed blank but the rock has such a coarse texture my feet felt very possitive. The last pitch to the top felt a little sandy but still positive. All in all a fun exposed route that brought back some memories of Tuolumne. The rappel off the south side from the top made for a fun finish.

Easy Street is not my favorite route on McKinley but it does offer a good adventure as an easier multi-pitch route that requires a leader to do a little more thinking than yoyoing. When the Peregine Traverse is not available, this is a route UCC puts their students on once they've had three days of outdoor experience to give them a feel for following on a multi-pitch. And making the 4 rappels from the top down the south face between HangTen and Testosterone Monkey is awesome.

This route should have been called "Asshang over Fournoy Valley". WOW!

Fun climb with some unusual friction moves at the top. I had no problems with bottom 10 feet since it is easy 5.7 and holds are solid. I'm still waiting for nOOb to put his money where his mouth is and put chains on top, but until then I'll carry inch webbing to leave on top any of the older routes and be happy I didn't pay for all the first accent bolts that are there.