lmcwil's Logbook (32 ascents)

I climbed it once before on TR. Today I finally led it even though I wasn't feeling too great. Guidebook calls it a low 10; I have a hard time saying if it's more like a 9 or a 10. Probably a 9+ with one 10a move. But hey, I'll take it. =)

People complain about the sliminess of the crack but honestly it's very well protected so it's really not that bad.

Nice climb. book calls it a 5.9. The second pitch is probably a 5.7, w/ a bit of exposure. The belay station is super comfy.

I led the first pitch and Jason the second.

Never noticed this route before today; it looked easy so I decided to try to onsight it. Boy, was I in for a surprise after I got past the 3rd bolt. I tried 3 times to pull the next ledge, and ended up down-climbing each time. Then I tried something different and ended up taking a wild fall, resulting in flipping upside down (by far the scariest fall I've ever taken, but I didn't fall out of the harness and I'm unhurt).

I tried a few more times and got really really freaked out so I lowered off. My friend finished the lead and then I cleaned it, and even on TR I felt kinda spooked. He clipped the 3rd bolt before pulling the ledge, by using a left side-pull and fairly high feet, which is what I did when cleaning. But I had to hang on the rope shortly thereafter. That was the only part I messed up on 2nd. The crux is both clipping the 3rd bolt and then getting over it to some good hand-holds, and then the top-out is great.

I would still call it a 5.9+R, not really a 5.10

I TR'd this quickly today and didn't even get pumped. That's a first!

Last time I led it, the draws were already hung. Today I finally red-pointed it all by myself. Although I had to take 3 tries at the tricky move coming out of the cave, b/c I forgot where my foothold was at. Goal for next time- bottom to top w/ no down-climbing.

i got slaughtered by ants near the top-out. when i got back down, i had like 10 bites. not good. fun route, other than that. i had a pretty tough time w/ it.

A very safe lead. probably the hardest part is actually getting to the first bolt. I clipped the first bolt, then downclimbed back to the ground to rest before going back up. Then I fell twice, pulling the ledge, purely out of exhaustion and lack of motivation.

super-easy. Enjoyable, though. watch out you don't Z-clip as the 2 bolts are pretty close together.

super-fun. I know this is within my capability, but I'll need to climb a lot faster to make it. I was cleaning on the way up, and had to hang on the rope twice. The hardest part for me is at the very top.

I finally got to climb this route! Very nice rest spot on it. Super fun.