markguycan's Logbook (106 ascents)

this is probably the best route at The Loaf.

I used it as my mental warm-up for the Fracture. don't be afraid of the wide section, it's not bad.

yeah, name fits.

I remember getting this with one or two hangs on the day we were stalked by a mountain lion.

I recall the crux only being about 2 moves but very barn-doory w/ an insecure jam.

early in my climbing career (5.8 was a strong lead) I took a small fall low on this route, My 1.5 rigid stem friend held me so I went up again, got a bit further but had not yet placed anymore gear when I fell again (I was gripped) this time a lip of rock -where my cam had rotated to- broke loose. I grounded onto my back. shaken but un-injured (save for a few scrapes), I got up from between the two boulders that could have easily caused much more damage. John Bacar then strolled up and soloed the route then dropping a rope for his client to TR. I was in awe, not only had I just barely avoided a death fall but immediately I was shown up by one of the heros of the day. Moral of the story: place lots of gear, double ck it after a fall, make sure solid stem cams are pointed downward, & dont try to be the hero.